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Oh, to reset the lights, I don't have to disconnect the battery, I just have to pull a fuse...I just don't remember the name, but I DO remember the position of it on the fuse panel! Am I correct?
Correct, pull these two fuses and wait a minute then put them back:

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Ok, an update. And a totally unexpected ending!

So I bought the MAF cleaner, and did all as I was instructed. It looked pristine, but I cleaned it anyway, made sure it was completely dry, and reinstalled it. I pulled the appropriate fuses, waited TWO minutes, then popped them back in....and the lights remained. So that evening, I ordered a new MAF sensor. (I'm in the sticks. If an auto parts place has it here, it's OUTRAGEOUS!)

Fast forward to today, and I pulled up to the pump with my sister in tow. I grumbled about the prices, and she said, "Why don't you get that 85% ethanol? it's so much cheaper...that's what I put in last time I filled up."

Ladies and gents...THIS is why my MAF sensor thought my fuel was too rich. *facepalm* I filled up with unleaded (NO ethanol) and an hour of driving...and the lights disappeared, and my cruise control worked again.

Dear sister has been "schooled" on ethanol now (never EVER more than 10%!!!) and I have to return the MAF sensor when it comes. And pay a restocking fee, no doubt. *sigh*

So here's a lesson; find out if someone has filled your NON-FLEX-FUEL VEHICLE with 85% ethanol. LOL
 
Clearly it has the quick drying feature. I personally have had no experience with this product; however, I would think you could go to the CRC website and query them as to whether you can use it for the sensor cleaning. I would hate to provide you with bad info that compromises the functioning of the sensor. Good luck.
 
I have a similar problem with my 2011 RAV4. I got a code P0102, though no Check Engine light on. I tried to erase the code by a OBD reader. The code was erased successfully according to the reader. However, the code immediately popped up again when the reader linked with the car computer right after it erased the code! I tried to clean the MAF sensor with the CRC cleaner. It did not fix the problem. I replaced it with a remanufactured MAF sensor bought from Autozone. It still did not work. When I drove my car, I did not feel those symptoms I saw on the web about the MAF sensor failure, like rough idling, consuming more gas, etc.
Any suggestion? I will appreciate that.
Thanks in advance!
 
This forum is excellent for all sorts of suggestions/hints in self-maintaining my Rav4. Recently my check engine light came on. Zipped over to Walmart and purchased the Equus 3030 code reader ($58). Very user friendly product and it immediately identified the MAS as the culprit. Went to NAPA and purchased a can of the CRC cleaner (about $6) and zapped the sensor intensively. Put sensor back after allowing to dry thoroughly and drove car about 50 miles before the check engine light came back on. I tried replacing with a new sensor but the light continued to pop on. Finally in desperation, I cruised the web for any other solution and someone mentioned the possibility of a loose hose housing. With trusty flashlight, sure enough was able to locate the hose just dangling in the engine compartment. It is not that easy to pick it out due to the dark colors and the fact it is back in under the hood. Reattached the hose.....problem solved. No check engine light. Hopefully the attached JPEGS of before and after will help anyone faced with similar dilemma.
Had the same problem as I thought it might be the MAS, but after seeing this post, I had the same loose hose. Plugged it back in and I'll tomorrow morning if the warning lights come back on.
Thanks.
 
Glad I found this thread, or else I would have been stuck running to the dealer.

I was trying to install an aftermarket set of fog lights and needed a power source. Thought I could use a fuse adapter to tap into one of the sockets in the engine bay. BAD IDEA!!! It generated the same P0102 code along with the check engine / TCS lights, and drove very sluggishly above 5000rpm.

On a 2017 SE, the fuse box is more complicated than pictured above. I pulled off every fuse (not relay) related to EFI or TCS, waited, restarted and still got the error code. Thankfully disconnecting both battery terminals, shorting them out, and waiting cleared up all the issues.

Funny thing is, starting the car up the first time afterwards, it just died. Second ignition cycle, it started and then ran just fine. Maybe it needs first ignition to reboot the system?

So just to point out - this P0102 error code may have nothing to do with your MAF sensor. Check your engine compartment fuse box as well, or try disconnecting the battery.
 
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