[Limshady88]

Well, not even 30 miles later the check engine light came on, reset it, removed and tighten up the gas cap again and 11 miles later, the light is back on. Other codes came up at P0446 and P0456 along with P0442. Both were local driving. I reset it one more time and did mostly highway and 25 miles later no light….. will see what happens heading home.

 

[Bigphil555]

The codes are EVAP related. P0446 is related to the cap, but also the vent control valve as a circuit code. It is possible that the harness/connectors associated with the valve are damaged/corroded or the valve is not fully shutting. Go for a visual inspection first would be my suggestion

 

[Limshady88]

This VCV is located on the charcoal canister or engine bay?

 

[Bigphil555]

In the engine I think

 

[AllTerrainOutlaw]

I'm still struggling. Now its throwing p0442 and a pending p0455 at a full tank now. Put the old gas cap on and going to check the charcoal canister lines to make sure they are on. The hoses are probably the best ones on this car.

 

[Limshady88]

No Update. Rav4 has been parked past 2 weeks due to a radiator leak. Replaced the radiator yesterday BUT, new aftermarket has 2 brass looking pipes at the bottom. The OEM does not have it. I suspect it could be a transmission line in and out but I’m not 100%
sure. My Rav4 has the Hockey puck Transmission cooler. If the 2 brass pipe on the new radiator is infact transmission line, can I reroute tranny fluid through the radiator? I also wanted to add an auxiliary tranny cooler in the future but if the radiator has a built in one, it might be easier to go that route. Anyone ever done this?

ro

 

[Jack Daniels]

The 2 brass tubes may be for either transmission fluid or steering fluid, however it may be best to call the manufacturer and ask them. There could be a name on the radiator somewhere.
It's difficult to gauge the tube diameters from your photo, however they look too small for transmission oil, they may be intended for power steering fluid only.
This cooler may have too much resistance, maybe the toyota dealer can tell you if it's suitable or not for transmission fluid, they may have experience with different aftermarket radiators/ fluid coolers.

 

[aza400]

I had this issue my 2005 has 560,000 miles on it l replaced the charcoal canister 3 times always emissions leak codes and check engine. Throttle body replaced that's was a wire problem leading to ECM.

 

[Limshady88]

Aza400, did u have to replace the entire canister or just some parts of it? Also did the dealer/mechanic/or did you replace it yourself? Thanks

watch some YouTube videos on people separating the bottom of the old radiator to show what the transmission cooler looks like. I believe that’s what it is. I bought the radiator from EBay, the seller is checking with the manufacturer for confirmation. Not sure if I want to route the line from the hockey puck through there now. The radiator operates between 185-220. I believe an auxiliary tranny cooler will do better than that. Any thoughts? Or I just don’t mess with it since I don’t tow long distances.

after driving the car around for a few days with the new radiator, the check engine light is back on same code P0442. Gonna just take it into the dealer and have them diagnosis it and go from there.

 

[Elle__Rav4]

A year ago a friend of mine troubleshot evap system leakage codes like those in this thread on his 1999 Honda Accord. As many reports on the net and this thread attest, this is often like seeking the proverbial needle in a haystack. Much like the reports here, the Accord had been to the shop twice and had had a few major parts replaced, at no small expense. The evap leak CEL always came back. Enough with the shops. What finally worked for my friend and me over a couple of days was a shotgun approach, on the cheap. We --

-- Printed out drawings of the evap system from the service manual. For the 2005 Rav4 herein, maybe go to cardiagn.com/toyota-rav4-2004-repair-manual/ and download the emissions section.

-- Systematically examined each evap system part, smelling for gas and applying smoke. No joy. But this resulted in us becoming acquainted with all the evap system parts and having some idea of where leaks in the system might occur.

-- Went to salvage yard and bought a bucket of parts from the same generation of vehicle, including charcoal canister, valves, and tubing for around $20 for all or nearly all evap system components.

-- Replaced the vehicle's old parts with the salvage yard parts, one by one, inspecting as we went.

-- Found one electrically operated, evap switching valve with a missing O-ring. In our heads, light bulbs lit. The tiny missing O-ring turned out to be the problem. (I had actually overlooked the O-ring when my friend suddenly said, "Hey, the salvage yard valve has an O-ring... ")

-- In short I think a lot of attention to detail and knowing what to look for are needed.

-- I do recommend the salvage yard, shotgun approach.

Post the year and frame number of your Rav4 or at least the engine, and maybe I can make more suggestions.

 

[AllTerrainOutlaw]

I had this issue my 2005 has 560,000 miles on it l replaced the charcoal canister 3 times always emissions leak codes and check engine. Throttle body replaced that's was a wire problem leading to ECM.

I know my throttle body may be causing issues, didn't think it would cause emissions codes, service manual made no mention of it. Whats a good way to go about diagnosing that?

A year ago a friend of mine troubleshot evap system leakage codes like those in this thread on his 1999 Honda Accord. As many reports on the net and this thread attest, this is often like seeking the proverbial needle in a haystack. Much like the reports here, the Accord had been to the shop twice and had had a few major parts replaced, at no small expense. The evap leak CEL always came back. Enough with the shops. What finally worked for my friend and me over a couple of days was a shotgun approach, on the cheap. We --

-- Printed out drawings of the evap system from the service manual. For the 2005 Rav4 herein, maybe go to cardiagn.com/toyota-rav4-2004-repair-manual/ and download the emissions section.

-- Systematically examined each evap system part, smelling for gas and applying smoke. No joy. But this resulted in us becoming acquainted with all the evap system parts and having some idea of where leaks in the system might occur.

-- Went to salvage yard and bought a bucket of parts from the same generation of vehicle, including charcoal canister, valves, and tubing for around $20 for all or nearly all evap system components.

-- Replaced the vehicle's old parts with the salvage yard parts, one by one, inspecting as we went.

-- Found one electrically operated, evap switching valve with a missing O-ring. In our heads, light bulbs lit. The tiny missing O-ring turned out to be the problem. (I had actually overlooked the O-ring when my friend suddenly said, "Hey, the salvage yard has an O-ring... ")

-- In short I think a lot of attention to detail and knowing what to look for are needed.

-- I do recommend the salvage yard, shotgun approach.

Post the year and frame number of your Rav4 or at least the engine, and maybe I can make more suggestions.

Thats exactly what I did this weekend actually. went to the salvage yard and pulled a charcoal canister and fuel tank pressure sensor off a lower mileage 04. I'm not saying I didn't get a CEL yet because i dont want to jinx myself yet but it didn't throw one as soon as the needle dipped below full.
Who knew it was so hard to find a pick n pull that has mk2 rav4s to part out in central PA

 

[Limshady88]

How much did it cost you?

 

[AllTerrainOutlaw]

How much did it cost you?

10 bucks for the canister pulled myself. FTP i can't remember

 

[1.8TTony]

That radiator is for a v6. The brass tubes at the bottom are for the (automatic) transmission fluid lines.

 

[Limshady88]

That radiator is for a v6. The brass tubes at the bottom are for the (automatic) transmission fluid lines.

Thanks for the response. I still installed it. It is a fits perfect in the in my 4.2 and the fans bolt up. Been running it for a week with no issues except the P0442 code still appearing. Correct me if I am wrong but the V6 was not offered in the 4.1 or 4.2. My guess is the Aftermarket Radiator company made them with to accommodate the 4.2 and maybe the 4.3 and up? Im going to leave it for now, meaning I wanted to reroute the tranny line from the puck thru the new radiator fittings to add cooling the tranny fluid. Not sure how much that would help anyways vs an auxiliary cooler. Any insight?

 

[1.8TTony]

Thanks for the response. I still installed it. It is a fits perfect in the in my 4.2

Im going to leave it for now, meaning I wanted to reroute the tranny line from the puck thru the new radiator fittings to add cooling the tranny fluid. Not sure how much that would help anyways vs an auxiliary cooler. Any insight?

Correct 4 cylinder engines in the Rav......v6 engines in the Lexus rx330....same radiator shape. Lexus v6 requires those metal transmission tubes. Cheaper to mass produce one style radiator to cover both models rather than produce two different designs.

 

[Limshady88]

Ok, took car to dealer for a diagnosis and their test didn’t show any leak. Not sure what test they did either using the computer or smoke. Anyway, they changed the fuel cap to OEM to see if that corrects the P0442 code. If that doesn’t, they have to replace all the aftermarket tube/fuel filler neck and parts back to OEM ($1200) and diagnosis again with OEM parts. Doesn’t make sense and not the route I will be taking. 😩 After the reset and 130 miles with the OEM fuel cap, the light is back on. 😩 Back to square 1 with the P0442 code

 

[1.8TTony]

Toyota dealership repair tech here.......we don't do smoke tests. We just hook up diagnostic computers to the vehicles various diagnostic ports and run automated bi-directional command/scan programs. We observe and interpret the results and perform adjustments/repairs as suggested via another computer program.

You have a couple options here.......

You can deal with BAR and have that vehicle legally exempted from any and all future state emissions testing procedures/requirements if you provide proper documentation stating that a federally licensed dealership determined that the EVAP system is functioning properly even though the vehicles onboard diagnostics system determines otherwise.

Another option is:
You can clear the EVAP code before state emissions inspection. Fill the gas tank full of gas. Drive the car as you normally would for three days. Doing this will get all monitors ready to pass inspection EXCEPT the full tank of gas will prevent the EVAP system from performing a leak test.

If the EVAP system is the only thing turning on the engine light, you keep a full tank of gas in the car because the EVAP system will never run a leak test when the gas tank is full of gas. No leak test means no engine light......

Just today I got 3 vehicles with EVAP codes to pass state emissions inspection test on my lunch break.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Tony, which state are you in? I believe in Connecticut you can pass emissions with the EVAP monitor incomplete.

 

[Bigphil555]

@1.8TTony interesting comment on why you would not use smoke in the dealerships. I get (and use) bi directional controls to open/shut the front and back doors for example, but I do use smoke as a visual. I would welcome your knowledge and thoughts in more detail on smoke (benefit /dis-benefit) for reference