Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

RAV4 Screens to protect AC condensor and radiator

36K views 90 replies 29 participants last post by  FKHeath  
#1 ·
I checked my new 2021 R4P and saw a few hits to my condenser. I installed the Volt Sceen on my 2017 Volt. It saved my Volt by taking a big rock hit preventing damage and saving me big repair costs.

Now I'm installing the Rav4Sceen Sunday.

Here is the link if you are interested.


Owners of 2019 Toyota RAV4s have reported punctures of their AC condensers or radiators. These are located right behind the grill in any car. Due to the open design of the grill, allowing rocks to pass through and strike the condenser or radiator at speed. Repairing this problem isn't that hard, but like anything these days, it isn't cheap either. One owner reported a $700 repair bill. And don't even ask about a warranty! Road hazard damage is specifically excluded from new car warranties.
 
#4 ·
From the site.
NOTE: This installation does NOT interfere with active aero grill shutters if your car is equipped with them. If installing behind the grill, we do recommend that you regularly check for leaves and debris that might have become lodged between the grill and your RAV4Screen.2.
 
#9 ·
There is a long thread with pictures in the gas model section of this 5th gen forum where owners use cheap (less than $5) plastic gutter guard and black tie wraps from home depot and hardware stores to protect the condenser's inlet grill. I have done this to my '21 gas XLE and it looks good--sort of like the World Rally Championship Toyota Yaris and the Hyundais. It's a quick, efficient and easy DIY project.
 
#14 ·
Use the plastic mesh. It is easier to work with instead of metal

 
#18 ·
#23 ·
Yes--the A/C condenser lower grill is the biggest concern & its more vulnerable. Also the condenser is expensive-maybe about $2k-- and hard to replace. The water/coolant upper radiator is stronger and is relatively easy to replace, and there are no reports in any forums I have seen that report rock damage to it.
 
#31 ·
Many people do it over and over to install various things: louder horns, raptor lights, TRD or GR badges etc. Any piece if plastic will get broken if you pull on it and bend it enough. That's why you should remove the hood latch. That trim panel probably costs a lot if you have to buy it from the Toyota dealer parts department.
 
#33 ·
I'm not arguing with you. As I said lots of people remove the plastic trim piece repeatedly--multiple times-- not just the once like you did for your screen. I'm trying to help THEM so they don't break that thing when they later decide to replace their horn and again for accent lighting inside the front grill and over and over. I have no doubt anyone can get away with doing it your way once or twice--just not repeatedly over the years. The two top DIY modifiers of the 5th generation RAV4 on YouTube are Morosov Automotive and Bullet Solano. Morosov prefers to remove the hood latch. Here's how he removes the latch and trim piece to access the horns and radar:
In contrast Bullet Solano prefers to do it YOUR way and even says "don't worry you won't break it" But watch how much he has to twist and bend that plastic piece when he doesn't remove the hood latch:
 
#43 ·
I removed my hood latch mechanism a few times. I didn’t mark where it was and it closes just fine. There really isn’t much adjustment for it so don’t worry about it.
The two upper bolt holes are slightly slotted so there is always a possibility of misalignment. It only takes a second with a felt tip pen to be safe.
 
#45 ·
^What was the ambient temperature when you did NOT remove the latch and wiggle out the vertical trim? I made sure it was +64F so the trim is more flexible, when I installed new horns and removed/installed the vulnerable trim piece (NO latch removal). It took me maybe 5 minutes to wiggle the trim out & back in it’s slot, with the latch still attached. So, no time saved one way or another for me. The vulnerable trim piece looks indestructible to me (need more data - who is going to test to destructions?). It can get scrape marks on it, and I put some small nicks in the plastic near the latch (have to know to see them). I have not heard of any Rav4 owners having to replace the vulnerable trim because it broke during wiggling past the latch (and we would have heard! - and seen pics?). It hasn’t happened if there are no pics.

I was put off by the spring on the latch. I didn’t want to take the risk that the spring would fly away (not happening, I now know) so I didn’t touch the latch bolts. But now, seeing how easy the removal and attachment is, I would remove the latch for any excursions in the grill area (remember to mark latch position before removal).
 
#46 ·
^What was the ambient temperature when you did NOT remove the latch and wiggle out the vertical trim? I made sure it was +64F so the trim is more flexible,
But now, seeing how easy the removal and attachment is, I would remove the latch for any excursions in the grill area (remember to mark latch position before removal).
Yesterday when I removed the trim it was 57 F (I check outdoor analog thermometer). When I began installation it was 59F.
 
#49 ·
Still 59 F. I live at 500 foot elevation in Oregon Cascades and yesterday was a record high temperature day--that's why I tried the removal, I was aware the temperature might cause the plastic to be harder and less flexible. So it looks like you have got to have that plastic trim piece at least up to the 64F you did it at to be more successful without removing the latch. Bottom line--everyone SHOULD just remove the latch to ignore the temperature and aggravation.
 
#50 ·
Perhaps just do it immediately after running the ICE on a long ride, started w/ the traction battery almost spent so that the ICE can be made to run in Charge mode...

And/or a hand-held hair dryer to gently heat up the bending part of the plastic to say 200F or higher? In fact I've done this on other projects and it worked quite well. If it's a PVC type melting point is maybe 340F or something like that if I recall. I like the idea of also running the ICE because then you get heat ascending up from the radiator to help keep the underside warm during the procedure.
 
#51 ·
All good ideas. The only problem with running the ICE engine to heat up the plastic is if you are doing a procedure that requires reaching between the grill and radiator (why else remove the trim?) The radiator is going to be HOT and you can burn your arm unless you wear long sleeves. Even then it may be problematic.
 
#54 ·
Might be, but it's worth a shot it's really no big deal. I'll do it some time when I'm out on an errand and just run the ICE in Charge mode for 10m OTW home. Pop the hood, lay a pillow on top of the panel to keep it warm as the radiator starts to cool, after a few minutes come back and pop the plastic push pins up etc and have a hair dryer in the ready. It does solve the issue with getting it back secured w/o any risk of any thing, which might be worth something. I'll try it and let you know how it went when I get the screen product. Not in a hurry.
 
#58 ·
View attachment 174606
Installed mine behind the grill. Used mini zip ties.
Bought material for upper grill and will install Sunday.
Hi Guyver,
When you zip tied the lower grill condenser area was it necessary to remove anything for access?
Please tell us about your upper grill install and the product you used. Did you remove the hood latch?
Thanks..