Hi i own a Rav4 2010 base model. I have an issue with my rpm. When i’m on idle i got sometimes severe drop of rpm near engine stall and then it boost up to normal state. I cleaned up the mass air flow sensor and changed spark plugs but no difference. It seems to occur when AC is on. Im now at 250k km. Any solutions?
RPM drop on idle
Simtronik
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Hi i own a Rav4 2010 base model. I have an issue with my rpm. When i’m on idle i got sometimes severe drop of rpm near engine stall and then it boost up to normal state. I cleaned up the mass air flow sensor and changed spark plugs but no difference. It seems to occur when AC is on. Im now at 250k km. Any solutions?
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49 Posts
That seems super low, mine sits around 500-600 on idle.
Sounds like a vac leak somewhere,
I'd remove the airbox / MAF / piping and clean the throttle body too, be careful, and you cant use the cable to open it to get more spray inside (i have seen some videos they gently use something plastic like a toothbrush to push it open), clean all that, check air filter
Then if still bad, i'd be inspecting all vac hoses (including PCV) - on that note, i'd remove \ clean the PCV valve (from memory, its a 22mm deep socket)
baring all that, see if you can get a code reader and see if any codes are poping up.
It might also be something like blocked injector, but thats getting a bit assume'ing at this stage.
The fuel trims might be interesting if you can get a code reader on there, they should ultimately be 0% but they fluctuate between 0-5% etc. prob from fuel quality and driving styles.
There is prob some idle control sensors somewhere, but i am not aware of where off the top of my head, and given its a drive by wire setup, i may be off the mark here (old school cable throttles needed some automation to up the idle so had small bypass valves that they could actuate and let more air in) as the mechanical cable couldnt be automatically opened to let more air in like they can now.
Sounds like a vac leak somewhere,
I'd remove the airbox / MAF / piping and clean the throttle body too, be careful, and you cant use the cable to open it to get more spray inside (i have seen some videos they gently use something plastic like a toothbrush to push it open), clean all that, check air filter
Then if still bad, i'd be inspecting all vac hoses (including PCV) - on that note, i'd remove \ clean the PCV valve (from memory, its a 22mm deep socket)
baring all that, see if you can get a code reader and see if any codes are poping up.
It might also be something like blocked injector, but thats getting a bit assume'ing at this stage.
The fuel trims might be interesting if you can get a code reader on there, they should ultimately be 0% but they fluctuate between 0-5% etc. prob from fuel quality and driving styles.
There is prob some idle control sensors somewhere, but i am not aware of where off the top of my head, and given its a drive by wire setup, i may be off the mark here (old school cable throttles needed some automation to up the idle so had small bypass valves that they could actuate and let more air in) as the mechanical cable couldnt be automatically opened to let more air in like they can now.
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49 Posts
your AC / climate Auto isnt on is it ? It will add the the load, but it "should" re-compensate and boost the idle pretty quickly.
Its still a bit low if its under 500 or close to stalling.
I had a 2007 2AZ-FE camry Manual trans (oh, i just realised i assumed yours was a 2AZ-FE) and sometimes the idle would hunt pretty badly, i did have a K&N filter on at one stage, but cleaning everything helped, but it would still hunt a bit but after a few days, im assuming the ECU would re-learn fuel quality\fuel trims\air mixture etc. and would eventually settle.
Hot days it would be a little worse, so with all that said, its very hard to diagnose, so cleaning everything and inspecting wont harm it, it can only help, but it may still be an issue...
maybe your AC is worn out a bit and putting extra load on the engine ? im kinda out of suggestions.
Its still a bit low if its under 500 or close to stalling.
I had a 2007 2AZ-FE camry Manual trans (oh, i just realised i assumed yours was a 2AZ-FE) and sometimes the idle would hunt pretty badly, i did have a K&N filter on at one stage, but cleaning everything helped, but it would still hunt a bit but after a few days, im assuming the ECU would re-learn fuel quality\fuel trims\air mixture etc. and would eventually settle.
Hot days it would be a little worse, so with all that said, its very hard to diagnose, so cleaning everything and inspecting wont harm it, it can only help, but it may still be an issue...
maybe your AC is worn out a bit and putting extra load on the engine ? im kinda out of suggestions.
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49 Posts
hmmm, given the kms, wonder if its a bit worn out or somthing is sort of seized? pretty unlikely, or is it electrical related?
maybe get a volt meter and test, or clean battery terminals, grounds etc.?
again bit of a long shot... but also preventative maintenance.
How is the battery condition? plenty of distilled water in there? age?
I have seen on an older car, when too much draw is on, the idle will suffer a fair bit...
maybe get a volt meter and test, or clean battery terminals, grounds etc.?
again bit of a long shot... but also preventative maintenance.
How is the battery condition? plenty of distilled water in there? age?
I have seen on an older car, when too much draw is on, the idle will suffer a fair bit...
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3 Posts
Hello, Exact same issue done 300 thousand. However my rav 4 also drops revs when taking off, obviously manual, I am now needing to ride the clutch to take of as hard & painful that is. It also does the drop in revs whilst aircon is on & almost stalls prior to going back up & this will continuesly happen if idling. Seems I have the same issue but further along. I removed & cleaned throttle body & MAF sensor, it seems to have helped a tad on take off however aircon dropping revs to almost stalls then rising is still the same, I'm hoping the ecu corrects the issue. I also noticed my airbox is missing a clip but didn't think this would cause such an issue. Seems whatever is responsible for revs is the culprit which I believe could be a number of things. The fact we have the same issue means it's probably common. I might have to give some $$$$$
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3 Posts
I'm having a similar issue. Dropping as low as 400 rpm at idle. Car is a 2012 RAV4 MK3 auto sub 70K miles 2.0 petrol Valvematic, and I've been doing work on it ready to sell after buying a new set of wheels after 9 years of ownership.
It's had a faulty Valvematic controller replaced. New air filter. New NGK Iridium sparks. Few extra bits and bobs around the suspension done. Last job was exhaust flange repair. It was running brilliantly when I took it home, but wouldn't turn over the following morning. Dash didn't even light up. Odd, as previously had no indication the battery was struggling.
Later, I put it on a battery charger. It began at 9.0V rising throughout the day. Once it was charged, it started up first time. After a minute, the revs began to settle as normal. After another minute, the revs dropped really low, almost to a stall. A/C, lights, radio, etc. all switched off.
Checked the battery voltage, and it was a little on the high side, nudging 13V (engine off). Plugged in my scanner and noticed the voltage at the control module was normal when the revs were 13.8V (engine running), so I assume the alternator is working.
Turned everything off. Disconnected the battery. Cleaned every contact I could find across the engine with contact cleaner, including the MAF. Put everything back together, but I'm still seeing very low rpm a couple of minutes after turnover.
Even tried a spare battery, but no change. I'm absolutely stumped. No error codes, so I don't think it's a vacuum leak, as I assume I'd get codes thrown at me.
My apologies for the monologue, but I thought it best to cover everything I know it's not, before asking for help. Does anyone have any experience of this particular issue, and if so, what should I check next?
Many thanks in advance.
It's had a faulty Valvematic controller replaced. New air filter. New NGK Iridium sparks. Few extra bits and bobs around the suspension done. Last job was exhaust flange repair. It was running brilliantly when I took it home, but wouldn't turn over the following morning. Dash didn't even light up. Odd, as previously had no indication the battery was struggling.
Later, I put it on a battery charger. It began at 9.0V rising throughout the day. Once it was charged, it started up first time. After a minute, the revs began to settle as normal. After another minute, the revs dropped really low, almost to a stall. A/C, lights, radio, etc. all switched off.
Checked the battery voltage, and it was a little on the high side, nudging 13V (engine off). Plugged in my scanner and noticed the voltage at the control module was normal when the revs were 13.8V (engine running), so I assume the alternator is working.
Turned everything off. Disconnected the battery. Cleaned every contact I could find across the engine with contact cleaner, including the MAF. Put everything back together, but I'm still seeing very low rpm a couple of minutes after turnover.
Even tried a spare battery, but no change. I'm absolutely stumped. No error codes, so I don't think it's a vacuum leak, as I assume I'd get codes thrown at me.
My apologies for the monologue, but I thought it best to cover everything I know it's not, before asking for help. Does anyone have any experience of this particular issue, and if so, what should I check next?
Many thanks in advance.
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3 Posts
P.S. water pump and aux belt done as well. (water pump was on its way out)
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3 Posts
Oh my giddy aunt. I'll leave my embarrassment here on full display in the hope that someone else learns from my stupidity.
After a flat/disconnected battery, the ECU & throttle need to relearn to set the correct idle speed. To do this, just take it for a spirited run. No diagnostics. No new parts. No cleaning. Bless you Mr Toyota.
Well... that was a cheap fix! 😂
After a flat/disconnected battery, the ECU & throttle need to relearn to set the correct idle speed. To do this, just take it for a spirited run. No diagnostics. No new parts. No cleaning. Bless you Mr Toyota.
Well... that was a cheap fix! 😂
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