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I did some online searching and found this:


Definitely would work but hard to swallow the $500 price tag!
That's even more spendy than the German one!
Maybe I'm missing something. If this is what you're referring to I don't see it as being $500 on my end.
 
THE WAY to NEVER have a problem with a sunroof "leaking" is to clear off the glass before opening it and dumping all the accumulated debris into the drain trough. I do it by driving far enough to let the wind blow it clean and then opening it.
If that doesn't apply you may have to wipe it off first.
 
THE WAY to NEVER have a problem with a sunroof "leaking" is to clear off the glass before opening it and dumping all the accumulated debris into the drain trough. I do it by driving far enough to let the wind blow it clean and then opening it.
If that doesn't apply you may have to wipe it off first.
I personally have never had an issue and couldn't figure out how people where getting them clogged.
 
After getting a waterfall down my back in my '86 Accord even after it hadn't rained in days I figured it out.
Okay more accurately, after it happened to my wife I HAD to figure it out.
I was parking under a tree and either leaving the roof open or opening it with leaves etc. on top. When I stopped doing either my back (and hers) stayed dry ever after.
 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
After getting a waterfall down my back in my '86 Accord even after it hadn't rained in days I figured it out.
Okay more accurately, after it happened to my wife I HAD to figure it out.
I was parking under a tree and either leaving the roof open or opening it with leaves etc. on top. When I stopped doing either my back (and hers) stayed dry ever after.
The insidious thing about this is that the water can go directly to the floor pan and remain undetected until it gets over the level of the carpet. So I am betting that a lot of folks have water damage and don't even realize it. Where is that musty odor coming from? Must be the cabin air filter!
 
Only places that I found it...
Titanium Tools $450
RAE $300

Have you found it for any less?
It is $289.51 at the Toyota Special Service Tool Website. Price is to the far right. Not sure if your computer is being weird like mine. If I click on the link once it opens up another window to the home screen. If I go back and click on the link again, it opens directly to the tool. Not sure why.
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
It is $289.51 at the Toyota Special Service Tool Website. Price is to the far right. Not sure if your computer is being weird like mine. If I click on the link once it opens up another window to the home screen. If I go back and click on the link again, it opens directly to the tool. Not sure why.
View attachment 197075
I was originally thinking about the WDT-250 referenced above. This one looks interesting but I would like to see some better photos or even a video of it in action. This one appears to be hand operated.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I spent some time looking at about half a dozen of these on Amazon and reading the reviews. The shaft is coiled stainless steel which acts like a small "slinky" making it hard to push on. I also noticed a potentially fatal flaw... The brush and the shaft are 2 SEPARATE pieces and are only held together by a short crimp.

The nightmare scenario is if the brush comes loose from the shaft leaving the brush to obstruct the hose! I read one review where that happened. Apparently the user was rotating it at the time. Another scenario that may lead to the same problem is that the bristles will all be pushed one way on insertion but would have to reverse direction to be removed. In this case the shaft may uncoil and either ruin the tool and/or pull off the brush.
 
weed wacker line, feed it down, find the end, attach pipe cleaner, drag back up
repeat all 4 drains
I like this idea except with all the ridges my weedwacker line has on I'd think it would do a pretty good job of cleaning just by itself w/o the danger of something attached to it coming loose or doing other damage.

And I'll sell a 10' section for $50 shipped, a tenth the cost but it won't have a Toyota label on it.
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
I like this idea except with all the ridges my weedwacker line has on I'd think it would do a pretty good job of cleaning just by itself w/o the danger of something attached to it coming loose or doing other damage.
Losing part of your drill string down the hole would be a REAL disaster. A chance that I would rather not take.

I would still like to find some shorter 12-16" straight tubing brushes to clean out the more "level" part of the tubing before it makes its downward turn. I think that this is where a lot of the crud ends up and settles due to low velocity.

And I'll sell a 10' section for $50 shipped, a tenth the cost but it won't have a Toyota label on it.
I am thinking about trying this again but with some smaller diameter line. I am also thinking about a line "stiffener" tube (plastic pen barrel maybe) to move the feed point back within finger reach. Currently too much mechanism in the way, especially for the rear holes.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
It's not "drill string" and if it's tough enough to chop up briars, weeds and small branches it isn't gonna break. In fact I highly doubt you could break it by hand w/o tools.
This is what I use in my Ryobi String Trimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Maxpower-338814-Premium-095-Inch-200-Foot/dp/B003VPWHL6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GMGA6YEXS210&keywords=095+trimmer+line+twisted&qid=1687752135&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=.095,lawngarden,189&sr=1-3
That comment was misplaced I was referring to the recommended Amazon brushes or attaching anything to the end of a weedeater line.

I am now looking at possibly using CPAP brushes. They have a stiffer shaft which integrates the brush with it so it can't be lost. The shaft is also SS which makes it pretty flexible. These also come in up to 5' lengths. The only potential issue is the length of the bristles on the brush. They now have slim CPAP hoses (15mm diameter) so the brush might fit as-is but might also have to be given a "haircut".
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Speaking of these drains... Does anyone know what is required to access the rear drains? I can't even see them in any open position of the sunroof. Obviously can't get my head up there with the roof closed.

I did manage to get some .095" string trimmer line all the way through the front drains. The plastic barrel of a Bic pen makes a good guide.
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
Based on some photos when I did some sound deadening the rear drains are located at the rear of the outside aluminum channel (roof slide). Based on a tape measure it looks to be about 16" back from the roof opening. You'll need a straight 16" long tube to guide any cleaning brush.

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So far the rear drains have not clogged up. However I imagine that If I would park on an uphill incline that these would clog up just like the front ones.

I recently dumped about 20 oz of water down each channel and it ended up on the ground behind each rear wheel.
 
I stress I have not done what I am about to propose for cleaning pollen out of drains. When I have had a thick layer of pollen on a plastic green house roof that scrubbing would not remove, I used some 30 Second cleaner which is a bleach and the stuck pollen would after waiting a minute instantly wash away with gently flowing water.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I stress I have not done what I am about to propose for cleaning pollen out of drains. When I have had a thick layer of pollen on a plastic green house roof that scrubbing would not remove, I used some 30 Second cleaner which is a bleach and the stuck pollen would after waiting a minute instantly wash away with gently flowing water.
Yea, our pine pollen turns into paste which needs some agitation to dislodge. So far the best that I can come up with is a small bottle brush that will only reach about 10" or a length of weedeater line attached to an egg beater hand drill.
 
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