Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

RAV4Family

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
We bought a 2006 base model 2.4L with 210,000. We are currently at 232,000.

We have replaced the alternator, battery,, serpentine belt, pads and rotors x4, spark plugs, and 1 coil pack all within the last 3 months.

The main concern is when braking. When I am coming to a complete stop and only to a complete stop. Not when I'm braking to turn a corner or anything like that. And it only occurs at the last second of braking. Like within the last foot of stopping.

I get a hard vibration within the pedal+the car. It can be felt throughout most of the car I believe. Also while the car is vibrating the back light of the dashboard (the light that lights up the gauge clusters and the info square) start to flicker pretty quickly and very noticeably.

When sitting at a stop waiting for a light to turn green or whatever it may be the lights continue to flicker, the vibration goes away but is followed by a roughish idle. Putting in neutral seems to help with the idle roughness.

The rest of the interior lights also flicker somewhat. Map lights, trunk light etc. I've also noticed that upon starting the car up, when I put it in drive and start to take off I hear a single clicking sound and see the headlights dim or flicker and then everything resumes to normal. Only has this occur when driving off from being parked.
156917
 
It sounds like the engine is going to stall due a fault in the auto transmission torque converter or one of its solenoids. It is like coasting to stop in a manual car without pushing clutch in when in gear.

That or you have one of the brake calipers leaking brake fluid onto the rotors and pads causing it to grab. This has happened to me on both sides of my rear calipers. Get a look at the backside of the tires to check for any brake fluid leak. Have you been losing brake fluid lately?


“I've also noticed that upon starting the car up, when I put it in drive and start to take off I hear a single clicking sound and see the headlights dim or flicker and then everything resumes to normal. Only has this occur when driving off from being parked.” <——-this is completely normal but I don’t know why this happens. my rav4 does the same thing as well.
 
Vibrations sounds like the rotors could be the issue. I had the issue with Matrix. Mechanics couldn't figure out. I asked my friend, who fixes cars for himself. Not a mechanic by profession. He told me rotors. I changed the rotors and never again had vibrations. And yes vibrations was bad while braking.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Does your car have ABS ? This sounds like it's activating at slow speeds thinking the tires are skidding. My 08 Rav4 does this sometimes. No light flickering though.
It's a good idea to inspect your brake calipers and rear drums for leaks etc.
 
Note that all the brake pads & rotors have been changed and except for possibly neglecting the slide pins as DL175 mentioned I doubt it's brake related.

What makes the most sense to me as Rav-O-Matic suggests is the torque converter not releasing quick enough and thus loading the engine below its normal idle (which I also see on the tach). Too low an RPM causes the alternator output to weaken causing the flickering lights. I'd suggest having the transmission fluid completely changed using what's called a flush. I hesitate using that term since some equate it with some kind of a high pressure procedure which it isn't at all. It's simple letting the engine pump old fluid out while new goes in.

Another possibility is another coil pack failing especially since one has already been replaced and that was a common issue on '06 models albeit usually the V6s like ours. Unless you buy them from the dealer they are quite inexpensive. On the V6s in addition to a very rough engine you'd get and a code which he hasn't mentioned but if one coil failed I'd replace the others.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kevcules46
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I was only able to change the one coil pack due to the shop only having one in stock which still was around $60.

Transmission fluid looked ok... I didn't notice any leaking around the calipers when we changed the pads and rotors. I can double check though.

I had a code pop up when the coil pack failed. Can't remember the code though. No CEL now though.

Also another issue I've noticed is sometimes in the morning or whenever I'm pulling away from home/parking lot (not all the time but it has happened 4 times within the last 2 weeks) is that I start to turn the wheel to get going and the steering wheel locks up, abs, VSC, and traction control lights come on (and sometimes the power steering light comes on as well) and then the lights turn off, steering wheel resumes to normal and then that's it until next time it occurs. Never occurs during a drive, just at the start when I'm pulling away from being parked for some time. Some time ranging from 5 minutes to 24 hours.

I also experienced my car to completely loose all electrical power when I stopped inside a gas station a few weeks ago. The only time it has occurred since the battery and alternator have been replaced. I jiggled the battery wire and that seemed to fix it.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
It sounds like the engine is going to stall due a fault in the auto transmission torque converter or one of its solenoids. It is like coasting to stop in a manual car without pushing clutch in when in gear.

That or you have one of the brake calipers leaking brake fluid onto the rotors and pads causing it to grab. This has happened to me on both sides of my rear calipers. Get a look at the backside of the tires to check for any brake fluid leak. Have you been losing brake fluid lately?


“I've also noticed that upon starting the car up, when I put it in drive and start to take off I hear a single clicking sound and see the headlights dim or flicker and then everything resumes to normal. Only has this occur when driving off from being parked.” <——-this is completely normal but I don’t know why this happens. my rav4 does the same thing as well.
The only thing is that the vibrations do not occur when im coasting and only when I'm braking. Not the entirety of braking either. Just the last couple of feet before coming to a complete stop. I can stop the vibration by letting my foot off the brake. Doing so causes the vibrations to not be as bad.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
The vibrations are still happening. This time its when I'm sitting at a stop sign it feels like the whole car is going to break down. The lights continue to flicker while the car vibrates. Letting off the brake fixes it.

Also now having a no power issue. It started last week when it snowed. We went to drive out of the parking lot and the car vibrated, all the lights came on (like...all the dash lights), the lights flickered and then the car died. Took keys out and turned it back on no problem. Then on the way back home I happened to roll the window down and up a few times (I was complimenting everyone I passed that was building snowmen), then shortly after the same thing. Vibration, all lights on, steering locked up, flickering, car dies. Remove keys, and start back up. Went home.

Well the other night my wife was getting in the car getting ready to leave work and the same thing happened to her as she tried to leave the parking lot. Vibration, flickering, all lights on. I told her to pull over and add some oil (the cursed 06 oil consumption). Once she turned the car off and went to open the trunk, she realized she forgot to unlock the trunk. Went and opened the car and noticed it was completely out of power. Had a friend drive her home.

Friend drives me to get the car. There's been corrosion around the terminals for a few weeks now. Never got around to cleaning. Well I brought supplies to clean it. And as soon as I opened the door there was power. Turned the car on no problem. Drove home and AS SOON AS I pulled the keys out it instantly lost all power. Now we only live about 6 minutes away from work so possibly it didnt charge enough while driving. It's a 600 cold crank battery that we bought last summer. Also have a new alternator at the same time the battery was replaced.

I cleaned the terminals off, tightened them and still no power. I threw in the flag for the night since its in the upper twenties outside. I couldn't bear the weather anymore.

Electrical problems are the worst. I'm ready to fall victim to the new car debt 😩
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Note that all the brake pads & rotors have been changed and except for possibly neglecting the slide pins as DL175 mentioned I doubt it's brake related.

What makes the most sense to me as Rav-O-Matic suggests is the torque converter not releasing quick enough and thus loading the engine below its normal idle (which I also see on the tach). Too low an RPM causes the alternator output to weaken causing the flickering lights. I'd suggest having the transmission fluid completely changed using what's called a flush. I hesitate using that term since some equate it with some kind of a high pressure procedure which it isn't at all. It's simple letting the engine pump old fluid out while new goes in.

Another possibility is another coil pack failing especially since one has already been replaced and that was a common issue on '06 models albeit usually the V6s like ours. Unless you buy them from the dealer they are quite inexpensive. On the V6s in addition to a very rough engine you'd get and a code which he hasn't mentioned but if one coil failed I'd replace the others.
Since this post I have replaced a second coil pack after recieving an error code relating to a misfire (#2 I think it was). So now 2 out of the four coils have been replaced. Also copy pasting from my other thread:



Just had another incident pulling out of a Wamart parking lot. I reversed out and had to make a sharp turn to get into line to leave the lot. Once I went to make my turn the wheel locked up, the lights flickered on, and I slowly coasted (stalled) off to the side. Put it in reverse and it acted fine. It seems (and im only speculating) that this happens a lot when I'm trying to leave a spot that doesn't have high speeds. I feel as if I give it enough gas that the problems never happen. It happens more when I'm having to drive slow (someone in front of me, etc) and not able to give it a good pedal to the floor so to speak.

I was able to make it to our next stop where I filled up the gas tank. I got back in the car and went to pull off (sharp u turn) and it started locking up, lights, etc. I was able to pull into a parking spot shortly after (at this point the lights flickered, steering locked, and I heard clicking sounds at least 10 times). I got into the parking spot, turned the key off and before I couldpull the key out the entire car lost power (no lights,noises, nothing). I jiggled the negative battery terminal with the key in the on position until I heard the door ajar beeping sound. Then I was able to turn the car on (dome lights illuminated, etc) and I drove home with no other problems.

Also when I had the key in the on position and jiggling that negative cable until I could hear the beeping noises, I would hear multiple clicking sounds coming from under the hood. I'm sure it's the starter and what not but Iwould hear the clicking sounds, then they would click again and I'd look to see if I had power with no luck. But the last time the clicking noises happened they only clicked once and then power was restored and I was able to drive home.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts