Changing 2GR-FE Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils with Pictures
I had changed all six original ignition coils in March of 2014 with Beck-Arnley coils, even though only one original was bad. Fast forward to two weeks ago, on the second day of my new job, my V6 decided to shut down on the freeway while driving. Luckily, I was able to coast over to the shoulder to avoid any accidents or jams. However, I still made it to work and back, pulled the scanner out and read all 6 coils were bad per the codes, which seemed weird that all would fail at once. So I pulled out the 6 B-A ones, put the 5 original and 1 B-A coils in last weekend, as well as new spark plugs. It drove fine for the week, but I still went ahead and bought 6 new Delphi ones because they have a 3-yr/36k miles warranty since the B-A only had a 1-yr/12k-miles warranty. After changing the coils out again this past weekend, the RAV seems smoother and normal.
Throughout this ordeal, I took a few pictures to document the process for anyone who wants to DIY. There are a few older posts as well.
Spark Plug Change 2007 V6-DIY- Not too complicated
DIY - How to Replace the #1 Ignition Coil on the 2GR-FE V6
There may be other methods of changing them out, but this is what I followed since I can quickly and easily do it now. I've added numbers to indicate the (rough) sequence that I had followed. Before that, I had disconnected the ground clamp from the battery.
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The spark plugs can be removed with a 16mm plug wrench and a 6-in extension in a counter-clockwise direction. Three of the six plugs were very tough to turn at first for me, so I was careful in keeping the ratchet and extension as straight as possible while turning. The 1-3-5 plugs are tough to remove with the ratchet and extension on the wrench due to the angle and firewall, so I used a magnetic picker to take it out.
Comparison of the old and new spark plug, with anti-seize applied on the threads.
NOTE: If you watch the The Car Care Nut videos, he actually advises NOT to put any anti-seize.
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Install the new spark plug by hand first, making sure it goes in properly, otherwise the threads may get stripped. Torque to 18 ft-lb.
Put everything back together and torque the nuts and bolts to the proper settings. I couldn't fit my torque wrench onto the three 12mm bolts facing the firewall, so I just tightened them down. Note the two yellow arrows pointing to the hoses, it's really important for the No.1 Ventilation Hose (larger one) to be properly connected.
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I had changed all six original ignition coils in March of 2014 with Beck-Arnley coils, even though only one original was bad. Fast forward to two weeks ago, on the second day of my new job, my V6 decided to shut down on the freeway while driving. Luckily, I was able to coast over to the shoulder to avoid any accidents or jams. However, I still made it to work and back, pulled the scanner out and read all 6 coils were bad per the codes, which seemed weird that all would fail at once. So I pulled out the 6 B-A ones, put the 5 original and 1 B-A coils in last weekend, as well as new spark plugs. It drove fine for the week, but I still went ahead and bought 6 new Delphi ones because they have a 3-yr/36k miles warranty since the B-A only had a 1-yr/12k-miles warranty. After changing the coils out again this past weekend, the RAV seems smoother and normal.
Throughout this ordeal, I took a few pictures to document the process for anyone who wants to DIY. There are a few older posts as well.
Spark Plug Change 2007 V6-DIY- Not too complicated
DIY - How to Replace the #1 Ignition Coil on the 2GR-FE V6
There may be other methods of changing them out, but this is what I followed since I can quickly and easily do it now. I've added numbers to indicate the (rough) sequence that I had followed. Before that, I had disconnected the ground clamp from the battery.
- Loosen the clamps and hose to the airbox-throttle body junction.
The junction can now be removed. - Remove the various hoses. Note that the "Union to Check Valve Hose" is on the back of the intake manifold facing the firewall.
- Disconnect the "Intake Manifold Connector."
- Loosen the four (one not shown) 10mm throttle body bolts.
The throttle body can now be removed from the intake manifold. Note there is an electrical connector to the throttle body, be careful. - Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the intake plenum to two brackets.
- Remove the four 8mm hex bolts in the middle of the intake manifold.
- Remove the two 10mm nuts on either side of the intake manifold.
- Remove the one 12mm bolt holding down the bracket over coil #1.
- Disconnect the VVT sensor connector.
- Disconnect the six coil connectors and remove the six 10mm bolts.
The tab on the coil connector is very fragile, I used a pick to gently lift it up while pulling it off the coil.
The spark plugs can be removed with a 16mm plug wrench and a 6-in extension in a counter-clockwise direction. Three of the six plugs were very tough to turn at first for me, so I was careful in keeping the ratchet and extension as straight as possible while turning. The 1-3-5 plugs are tough to remove with the ratchet and extension on the wrench due to the angle and firewall, so I used a magnetic picker to take it out.
Comparison of the old and new spark plug, with anti-seize applied on the threads.
NOTE: If you watch the The Car Care Nut videos, he actually advises NOT to put any anti-seize.
Install the new spark plug by hand first, making sure it goes in properly, otherwise the threads may get stripped. Torque to 18 ft-lb.
Put everything back together and torque the nuts and bolts to the proper settings. I couldn't fit my torque wrench onto the three 12mm bolts facing the firewall, so I just tightened them down. Note the two yellow arrows pointing to the hoses, it's really important for the No.1 Ventilation Hose (larger one) to be properly connected.
