[nld09]

RLS - I am guessing your RAV4 burns about 3,000 km (1827 miles) a quart. Not bad for now but I think it will get worse over time.

I heard you have to soak a few times to get good results.

 

[RLS]

RLS - I am guessing your RAV4 burns about 3,000 km (1827 miles) a quart. Not bad for now but I think it will get worse over time.

I heard you have to soak a few times to get good results.

No, much better than that now. When I first got it, it used 1L in under 2000km. Now it's down 40% (still over half on dipstick) and it's done 4000km so far. Keeps improving.

 

[Rey_NJ]

soaked mine with the B12 for only 12 hours but refilled when I saw it completely drained out from the pistons and rotation like 5-6 times on every refill.

Can someone explain logical reason about rotation 5-6 times needed ? From YT, it showed with 5 and half, or 1/4 more.

 

[Savory]

Forgot to mention I gave the berrrymans a shot with my 06 Rav using Berryman B-12 Chemtool Total Fuel System instead (didnt realise there was a difference) Its colored Brown instead of clear. Had it soaked overnight nearly 24hours while rotating the engine every couple of hours. Put about 1,262 KM since i performed the soak. Haven't topped the oil off in 1 1/2 months. Didnt expect it to work. (Did change the oil/filter immediately after.

Used to top off the rav4 1-2 weeks. I still check it weekly.

What I used

 

[Zannah1981]

Hey guys.. I own a 2007 camry SE with the 2.4L 2azfe. I purchased in 2021 with 95k miles on it. it now has 138k miles. I was burning about 1qt every 1200 miles, which increased to about 1qt every 900-1000 miles as of a week ago.

I did a berryman's b12 piston soak, over 20 hours. I used roughly 2.5 ounces in each cylinder every 4 hours, until 3 cans were used up. I rotated the engine 4-5 ¼ times (to keep TDC, checking with a wood stick) on each refill. I ended up losing all compression in the engine and, after everything was back together, my cylinders measured 30-40 psi using a compression gauge. The solution to this was to add 5ml of oil to the cylinders, using a curved hose and a syringe, to try and lubricate the edges of the cylinder. Then, i manually rotated engine 10 or so times to work the oil down into the compression rings. I did thid about 3 times. This was enough to bring each cylinder back up to around 100psi using the gauge - i scopee the cylinders after to see if there was any remaining oil (Nope). so i attempted to start it after this. Success. B12 can completely remove all oil from the tapered edges of the rings.. the starter motor will NOT be enough to bring sufficient oil pressure and oil back to the compression rings.. unless you want to burn out the starter.
Compression test after idling for 10 mins was 195 / 193 / 197 / 193, which is pretty damn good.

Just a word of warning for doing aggressive cleanouts like i did ! Afterwards, i changed the oil (was at OCI anyway), using walmart supertech 0w20 synthetic (its cheap, i normally use penzoil 0w20 or 5w20 synthetic).

So far ive driven 200 miles.. and the dipstick has not dropped at all from where it was after i changed my oil. I will update again at 1k, 2k, and 3k miles. stay tuned.

 

[Zannah1981]

560 miles .. and nothing has burned yet. wow.

 

[nld09]

560 miles .. and nothing has burned yet. wow.

That is fantastic. I am glad it works out great for you.

 

[nld09]

soaked mine with the B12 for only 12 hours but refilled when I saw it completely drained out from the pistons and rotation like 5-6 times on every refill.

Can someone explain logical reason about rotation 5-6 times needed ? From YT, it showed with 5 and half, or 1/4 more.

I think the rotation just to help loose the stuck rings.

 

[Zannah1981]

1141 miles. Id have been down 1 qt at 900 miles before the b12 treatment. Looks like the consumption is 1/4 of what it was. amazing!!

 

[Doji]

This is great to hear, and thanks for sharing! Planning to attempt this over the summer on my 2AR-FE with 192k miles on it!

 

[Zannah1981]

This is great to hear, and thanks for sharing! Planning to attempt this over the summer on my 2AR-FE with 192k miles on it!

As far as I am aware, the 2AR-FE did not suffer this issue, as toyota used a different design - there were no complaints of oil consumption compared to the 2AZ-FE. If you are still burning oil, the chances of it being a bunch of different things are higher (PCV valve, bad compression, etc), or the previous owner didnt care to do regular OCI. Check every other possibility first, then do the B12 if all else fails. See link below.
The b12 treatment is harsh on seals, gaskets, and if done improperly.. can damage cylinder wall cross hatch... only do it if necessary !

Updated pistons and rings - what's the difference?

Has anybody actually compared the updated design piston and piston rings of the 2az-fe to see if there's any difference? Have they actually changed anything or does the car just seem fixed after replacement since the pistons are free of sludge? Trying to decide if it's worth fixing my rav4.

www.rav4world.com

 

[Zannah1981]

2020 miles.. the dipstick reads roughly 1/4 mark. By 2500 miles i should be at the lower dot. My original estimation was oil was burning 4x less, but it looks like 3x less. 2500 miles is alot better than 900 miles ! Woooweee !

 

[Zannah1981]

Well.. 2558.5 miles, and its finally at the low mark exactly. I plan to do the OCI at 3100~ miles, so i only added in 250ML of oil, which put it at just above the 1/4 mark.

I also plan on doing another treatment at the end of summer, so ill follow the exact same method as before.. except this time, ill make sure to deal with the cylinder wash problem before I attempt to start it. In case yall are wondering, my method seems to completely remove all oil from the rings - so manually relubricating them with a syringe / curved hose (several times at 5ml increments) and manually cranking the engine is the best / safest way (in my estimation) to restore compression - just to avoid any possible damage done by dry starts.

Thanks berryman ! B12 chemtool is the bomb !

 

[Zannah1981]

1 Year update.. my oil burning is now at 1qt per 3700-4000 miles. Drastic improvement.

 

[WJBertrand]

I’ve been seeing these commercials for a new Valvoline oil that claims to clean the pistons really well. I wonder if anyone has tried it and if it works as claimed?

 

[Doneaccordingly]

A few adjustment to the soak procedure I've done with my 2azfe (135k miles now) and saw drastic improvements to the point no oil needs to be added to keep the level above min within 4000 mile OCI's.

1. Rotate engine every 30 minutes to work chemtool into rings during the soak. I did a 7 hour soak.
2. After soak drain all oil never crank and fill with 4qt 20w50 and a bottle of chemtool and new filter, thinning the 20w50 will yield a safe viscosity to run vs thinner weight when thinning will be under minimum on viscosity. I have verified safe viscosity via a oil viscosity calculator. Drive a few days, I did around 350 miles if I remember. This will help flush the soften carbon from the soak out of the rings. Oil was very dark when draining and after cutting the filter open I did see carbon flakes, not a ton but some.
3. Install new OEM PCV and cheap oil catch can on the PCV hose, I did buy new longer hose to accommodate the setup. This will prevent oils from returning into the combustion chambers resulting in more carbon buildup. Drain can every oil change.
4. Use 10w40 high mileage (5w40 if in cold climate/winter) 4k mile OCI mostly due to possibility of added fuel dilution with ring issues, refresh oil sooner basically to keep viscosity up.
5. Every oil change do a half a tank of fuel and 1 bottle or a full tank and 2 bottles of Gumout Regane High Mileage fuel system additive. This will help clear out any buildup within the combustion chambers and not allow it to reach the cleaner rings after soak and flush.

I have not added oil (10w40HM) to keep oil level on dipstick above minimum within 4k miles OCI since all this. 3 oil changes done (12k miles) and happy.