[Jack-70]

I don't think RAV4s are suppose to "safely" tow travel trailers... that's what they say on several travel trailer/RV forums I frequent. I tow my trailer with my Ram 1500.

 

[conanford]

You could, then connected to brake controller since the brake signal from the 4PIN is just for lights (on when pressing brake).

Aren’t the pins of a four-flat: Ground, Running Lights, Left brake/signal, Right brake/signal? So you can’t tap into the four-flat to tie into a seven-pin as the brakes will come on when you run your turn signal.

if the four-flat is coming from a 4-pin controller like the Curt T-tap, you could tap into the brake light wire on the wiring TO the controller from the actual brake light wire, but not on the four-flat wiring.

 

[conanford]

View attachment 150990

I finally put together a writeup for how I went about installing my 7-pin wiring harness with full brake controller functionality. I have a 2019 XLE AWD. The attached PDF is probably the best thing to look at, but I'm attaching all my photos I documented along the way. They should line up and work together:

PDF write-up:

https://www.rav4world.com/attachmen...7-pin-wiring-writeup-04-13-20-pdf.151507/?hash=2ca96a93e388678158364b434f8c4e7b

Photo library:

7-pin trailer wiring harness, photo library

www.rav4world.com

I'm open to any criticism or any input anyone has. There weren't any solid documents on how to do this when I first started it all, so a lot of this was me figuring out / inferring things on my own. Some recent stuff has been coming out pertaining to the gen 5, so people have probably figured out some better ways to go about some portions of this (for example: just recently I saw a Russian video showing a prefab hole penetrating the firewall behind the battery, oops!). I eventually reached the finish line and I'm proud of myself for doing so.
Hopefully some of you can get some use out of this!-

View attachment 150991 View attachment 150992

Great write-up—a related question—that shield above the wheel well, how did you get it off least-destructively? I accidentally snapped on of the plastic tabs on the passenger side when I took one off (for another project).

 

[Rav4wurld]

The flush mount in the bumper is terrific!

 

[Tplife]

Save $$$ this way as we did: DIY install the OEM 4-pin wiring harness. All you need is a plastic putty knife and a screwdriver. Take your RAV4 to an auto electric specialist for the 7-pin upgrade (eTrailer sells the upgrade wiring kit) with all the interior removed, making the pro work affordable. Tekonsha sent me a free wiring harness with the diode already inside it, an easy replacement for any amateur. The AirLift system will level your load, and the Delare 8000 transmission cooler will bring your specs up to Toyota RAV4 Adventure numbers.

2021 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid, OEM hitch, OEM 4-pin harness, eTrailer 7 pin plug and wiring upgrade kit, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, AirLift leveling bags

 

[Afpj]

Thanks for a great writeup. I have a 23 adventure, planning to install a Curt Hitch plus their four pin set up which looks to be plug and play except for the wire that needs to go to the battery up front. Maybe do seven pin later. Is there a reason why I just can't use the power to the 12 volt lighter socket in the back instead of going all the way to the battery? Sorry for the noob question. Thanks

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Is there a reason why I just can't use the power to the 12 volt lighter socket in the back instead of going all the way to the battery?

The 12V outlet in the back is where I got power for the taillight converter on our '06 RAV4.
The only downside is it will only be powered with the ignition on meaning the 4-way flashers won't work while the ignition is off. But under those conditions the rig would be parked so it was of no concern to me.

 

[FKHeath]

Is there a reason why I just can't use the power to the 12 volt lighter socket in the back instead of going all the way to the battery? Sorry for the noob question. Thanks

The 12 volt outlets have a low fuse rating, usually 10 to 15 amps. As long as the trailer lights don't exceed that you will probably be OK.

Personally, I abhor cutting into factory wiring and I try to avoid that if at all possible. Thus the run to the front battery is a better idea.

 

[Afpj]

Thanks! Yeah, trying to be least invasive with cost consideration. I saw a Tekonsha ZCI protect wiring kit that uses "sensors" to detect current flow so there's no tapping or unplugging (I think) but it's $200. For about $65 the curt harness that you just have to unplug and insert an adapter type plug in between connectors, a decent compromise for cost.

 

[Afpj]

I installed the hitch and wiring. I abandoned the tap to the rear cig lighter socket power...it's maybe an 18 or 20 ga wire. I used the supplied 12 ga wire to get to the front. I gave up on trying to find a path through the front firewall, the grommet in the deck of the rear compartment was easier. But, removing all the underbody cladding was a PITA to route the wire under the car along brake lines etc.. Do all ravs have that cladding or just the adventure? And I'm assuming TRD?

 

[FKHeath]

I gave up on trying to find a path through the front firewall, the grommet in the deck of the rear compartment was easier. But, removing all the underbody cladding was a PITA to route the wire under the car along brake lines etc.. Do all ravs have that cladding or just the adventure?

The PDF instructions for the OEM trailer wire harness shows the routing for the power wire to the front battery.

The plastic panels on the bottom of the RAV4 are there for MPG purposes; keeps the air from burbling around causing drag. There are other aerodynamic aids on the RAV4 such as the little fin on the side of the rear, outer, tail lights. Can you find more?

 

[Afpj]

I read the pdf from the first post, and looked at that youtube showing the firewall penetration point…that dude has skills I don’t have…even with the battery removed I just could not reach in there to git er done. I had no clue that all the ravs have the underbody plastic…there’s some really odd connect points I couldn’t undo, got it opened up just enough to reach in there and route the wire. Again, this is a great write up and this forum is awesome. Now I have to find how to upgrade techstream. Got v12, and it can only recognize 2017 and lower.
thanks!
ps, the adventure version roof rails I think take away some of the aerodynamic aids…it whistles at speeds above 75.

 

[Tplife]

Thanks for a great writeup. I have a 23 adventure, planning to install a Curt Hitch plus their four pin set up which looks to be plug and play except for the wire that needs to go to the battery up front. Maybe do seven pin later. Is there a reason why I just can't use the power to the 12 volt lighter socket in the back instead of going all the way to the battery? Sorry for the noob question. Thanks

Get the Toyota OEM hitch. YouTube videos show a new StealthHitch being removed for the Toyota OEM replacement. More mounting bolts and higher where you want it.

 

[WinterRanger]

Hi. Thanks for the pdf. It's been a God send for me as I try to get a 7 pin installed in my RAV4. I have one question about hooking up the diode. In picture 18a what's the green connector you're using to run the diode in series? Was it part of your permanent install or just for testing?

 

[Dr. Dyno]

The green connector looks like a temporary dual junction connection block to allow connecting the diode in series but I'm sure the diode is permanent because he states, "Without this, (the diode) manually braking my controller was causing a “Pre-Collision” error and disabling TSS." I see no reason why it couldn't simply be soldered in and heat shrunk.

 

[WinterRanger]

The green connector looks like a temporary dual junction connection block to allow connecting the diode in series but I'm sure the diode is permanent because he states, "Without this, (the diode) manually braking my controller was causing a “Pre-Collision” error and disabling TSS." I see no reason why it couldn't simply be soldered in and heat shrunk.

Those are my thoughts but I wanted to doublecheck

 

[Dr. Dyno]

He may check back in but the OP hasn't been here for 16 months.

 

[JDF RAVMAN]

View attachment 150990

I finally put together a writeup for how I went about installing my 7-pin wiring harness with full brake controller functionality. I have a 2019 XLE AWD. The attached PDF is probably the best thing to look at, but I'm attaching all my photos I documented along the way. They should line up and work together:

PDF write-up:

https://www.rav4world.com/attachmen...7-pin-wiring-writeup-04-13-20-pdf.151507/?hash=2ca96a93e388678158364b434f8c4e7b

Photo library:

7-pin trailer wiring harness, photo library

www.rav4world.com

I'm open to any criticism or any input anyone has. There weren't any solid documents on how to do this when I first started it all, so a lot of this was me figuring out / inferring things on my own. Some recent stuff has been coming out pertaining to the gen 5, so people have probably figured out some better ways to go about some portions of this (for example: just recently I saw a Russian video showing a prefab hole penetrating the firewall behind the battery, oops!). I eventually reached the finish line and I'm proud of myself for doing so.
Hopefully some of you can get some use out of this!-

View attachment 150991 View attachment 150992

Considering the history of lightweight transmissions, why would anyone tow a trailer larger than a 5x8 single axle behind a RAV4?