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Two tests to try:
-- Next time things turn on with the key out of the ignition, go to the engine bay fuse box near the driver's side strut tower. Remove fuse "AM2." It should be fuse #5 with a 5 amp rating. See page 60 of the wiring diagram.

-- Alternatively, it sounds like there is a parasitic load on your battery, causing the battery to be drained after you remove the key and walk away from the vehicle. It may be an intermittent drain, depending on whatever gremlins in the ignition switch are at work at any given time. To test for this, see
 

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hello, thank you again, I was working on the car this evening, just came back home now ( it is becoming dark) and just saw your post right now, I will remove the AM2 ,

so, so far I found the IG1 relay ( thank you again ), it is behind the fuse box ( dash), (if that can be helpful for someone else ),

I got 12 V on the pin 5 and around 2 V on the pin3 and nothing on the pin1 and pin2
+++ while I was working on the car the battery was plugged, maybe about 40 min later while testing the relays, the FAN radiator start ( this time no headlight, nothing else apparently, just the radiator fan) and I have only one radiator Fan,
and with the key whatever the key position or without the key, the fan turn ( I have to unplug the battery to stop it)

I don't know yet if it is ''normal'' but I found no power relay ( what is it for ),

now I guess I need to find what feed the ACC relay and the IG1 relay ( I am going to study again carefully the wiring diagram ),

next time I will remove the AM2 and tell you what happen,

I am still trying to understand why the alternator doesn't charge the battery ( I feel there is something there that will give the solution),

I am going back to study those plans, thank you again a lot
 

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I am thinking the alternator charges the battery just fine when you go for a drive. But subsequently, you return home, remove the key, and let the Rav4 sit. The ignition switch (or some other electrical part) is failing, causing amps to be drawn from the battery. By morning, the battery has lost charge.

Right after you go for a drive, you could check the battery voltage. Then stop the Rav4, leave the battery connected, and check the voltage a few hours or later. If the voltage has dropped, you probably have a parasitic draw.

Is the one fan you have on the vehicle's left side or the right side (in the engine bay)?

Please let me know if removing fuse 5 (AM2) stops the fan.
 

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hello ( good morning),
thank you for the question : the radiator fan is on the left side,
about the alternator, actually when the car start as soon as I remove the positive of the battery the engine stop,
it is why I think the alternator doesn't charge the battery,
and this problem is recent ( probably related with the issue of heather fan, flasher, radio and digital odometer not working, wiper ),

before when I had the issue with the radiator fan starting, by using the ''bypass switch'' ( to cut the power from the battery) the car was working fine ( alternator charging the battery, radio working, heather fan, digital odometer, flasher, wiper... ),

I was thinking about something, since I have 12 V on the pin 5 of IG1, may I put a jumper to see if the problem is coming from the IG1 relay ( I guess jumper between 5 and 3 ),

( while I will work on the car, I will tell you what happen with AM2, if the radiator fan start again),

Thank you again very much, see you
 

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hello ( good morning), thank you for the question : the radiator fan is on the left side, about the alternator, actually when the car start as soon as I remove the positive of the battery the engine stop,
If a person disconnects the positive terminal of the battery while her or his vehicle is running, then for one thing, there will be no more power to the fuel pump and spark plugs. The vehicle should stop running.
I was thinking about something, since I have 12 V on the pin 5 of IG1, may I put a jumper to see if the problem is coming from the IG1 relay ( I guess jumper between 5 and 3 )
[nonsense posted by Elle_Rav4 deleted by Elle_Rav4]
 

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hello, I tested quickly ( it is raining actually ) the IG1 relay again, and indeed there is 12 V even if the key is removed, so the ignition switch must be replaced right ( is there any test that can be done to check the ignition switch ),

because of the rain, I didn't get a chance to do the test with AM2 fuse, I will do it and tell you as soon as possible,

Thank you again a lot for your help
 

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Jenki, I was mistaken about IG1 relay pin 5. See the attached pdf file. It shows the wiring connections for the IG1 relay. Pin 5 should show 12 volts at all times.

Key removed from the ignition:
Pins 1, 2 and 3 = no voltage
Pin 5 = 12 volts

Key in the "On" position, engine off:
Pins 1, 3 and 5 = 12 volts
Pin 2 = no voltage (ground)

See also page 44 of 1999Rav4WiringSearchable.pdf.
 

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While the 98 looks like the 99, the electrical system is different. If my scattered memory is correct, the 98 has a fusible link in the block bolted to the positive battery post that turns off part of the electrical system including recharging the battery when open. The 98 Rav4 will still start and run until the battery dies. The same open link on a 99 or 2000 model, will not start or run, but I don't recall which link, just the location.

Removing the battery cable to test for charging is an old school test that does work on the 4.1 Rav4, but Toyota does not recommend its use. But it did prove yours is not charging.

Having something turn on when you turn the key off, is a classic symptom of a faulty ground.
When the ECU is disconnected from the battery, it resets to the factory defaults and takes a fair amount of driving to relearn the engine settings.

Good news is that your FWD is AWD, please don't play with the "button by the radio" until you read up on the locking differential system. The switch actually controls 2 different systems and the 2 systems act differently, most expect it to just be on-off switch and then it doesn't act like they expect. It is a nice feature to have but most will never need it.
 

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While the 98 looks like the 99, the electrical system is different. If my scattered memory is correct, the 98 has a fusible link in the block bolted to the positive battery post that turns off part of the electrical system including recharging the battery when open. The 98 Rav4 will still start and run until the battery dies. The same open link on a 99 or 2000 model, will not start or run, but I don't recall which link, just the location.

Removing the battery cable to test for charging is an old school test that does work on the 4.1 Rav4, but Toyota does not recommend its use. But it did prove yours is not charging.
The OP wrote, "I remove the positive of the battery... " Did the OP mean something that my addled brain misunderstood? I thought maybe the OP was way new to electrical concepts and was doing things that did not make a whole lot of sense.

I guess if the OP meant that he or she went to the trouble of removing the (100? amp) alternator fuse (fusible link) in the fusible link box, or disconnected(?) only the cable for same, and the Rav4 engine died immediately, then yes, something is amiss.
 

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hello, hope your are all fine, thank you a lot for the informations, sorry for the delay but I was studying carefully those plans,
and I am still trying to put all the pieces of the puzzle together :

so let do a recap
1) first few month ago I had issue with the radiator fan : when the key the engine was of the radiator fan start sometimes ( intermittent ) and drop the battery power, I bypass the problem by putting a ON\OFF switch between ground and negative,

2) Now my big concern is why the alternator is not charging the battery and why we lost wiper, heater fan, digital odometer, turn signal, radio

3) so far : we got no power on PWR OUTLET, CIG, SRS-ACC, WIPER, ECU-IG, TURN&GAUGE

we got the 12 V on the pin 5 of the IG1 relay,

''logically''
my hunch is :
the current doesn't feed those circuit because he is finding a ''easy way '' to go to the ground (
we should have a short cut somewhere ) , but where, I am still trying to figure out what should be test ( step by step)
 

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hello, just an update, this morning I put a jumper between pin 5 and pin 3 of IG1 relay connector and (as expected) I got power on WIPER, ECU-IG and TURN&GAUGE fuses ( = turn signal, wiper, digital odometer working back again ...),
so that point again to => a default on the ignition switch ( or a bad connection somewhere ( i.e a bad ground) or both )
my question is how could I test the ignition switch before replacing it,

Thank you for all
 

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Jenki,

Jumping IG1 relay's pins 3 and 5 and getting power to all the accessories you listed does not reveal anything about the ignition switch. Instead, do the following tests, step-by-step:

1.
Remove the IG1 Relay.

2.
Remove the ignition key. IG1 Relay's Pin 1 should have no voltage. Does it?

3.
Insert the ignition key but do not rotate it. Leave the key in the off position. Pin 1 should have no voltage. Does it?

4.
Move the ignition key to the "On" position (engine off). Pin 1 should have about 12 volts. Does it?

5.
Move the ignition key back to the "Off" position. Pin 1 should have no voltage. Does it?

6.
Repeat the above checks a few times. If the readings are not consistent with the above, report back here exactly what you found.

When you do any tests, please always indicate (1) whether the key is in the ignition and (2) in what position the ignition switch is.
 

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hello,
I just did the test, so :

1.Remove the IG1 Relay.
2.Remove the ignition key. IG1 Relay's Pin 1 should have no voltage. Does it? NO VOLTAGE
3.Insert the ignition key but do not rotate it. Leave the key in the off position. Pin 1 should have no voltage. Does it? NO VOLTAGE
4.Move the ignition key to the "On" position (engine off). Pin 1 should have about 12 volts. Does it? ALWAYS NO VOLTAGE
5.Move the ignition key back to the "Off" position. Pin 1 should have no voltage. Does it? NO VOLTAGE
6.Repeat the above checks a few times. If the readings are not consistent with the above, report back here exactly what you found. ALWAYS NO VOLTAGE ON THE PIN 1 AND ALWAY 12 V ON THE PIN 5 WHAT EVER THE KEY POSITION


thank you very much again
 

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Are you certain you are checking IG1 Relay Pin 1? To review, see the attached diagram with the drawing of the actual relay. It shows the pin numbers. (It is identical to the drawing you posted earlier.)

Was the battery properly connected for the earlier tests you did today?

Next test:

1.
Re-install the IG1 Relay.

2.
Insert the ignition key. Turn it to the "On" position (engine off). Do the dashboard warning lights come on?

3.
Leave the ignition key in the "On" position. Is there about 12 volts on both sides of the following fuses, located in the fuse box near the driver's left knee?
Turn & Gauge fuse, 10 amp
Wiper fuse, 10 amp
ECU-IG fuse, 10 amp
 

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I don't know yet if it is ''normal'' but I found no power relay ( what is it for ),
I see the Power Relay on page 52 of the 1999Rav4WiringSearchable.pdf file. Page 52 shows the Power Relay's coil receiving power from the integration relay. The Power Relay provides power to both the power window master switch (on the driver's side) and the front passenger power window switch. Does your 1998 Rav4 have power windows? If so, do they work okay?

The Power Relay also appears on page 4 of the 1999Rav4RelayLocations.pdf file.

Per what Roundabout posted, I am keeping in mind that the wiring diagrams may have some differences from what actually exists on your Rav4.
 

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Hello, I did the test,
so
when the key is at ON position,
I got nothing on both side of the fuses

( IG1 ) Turn & Gauge fuse, Wiper fuse, ECU-IG fuse,
same thing on fuses ( ACC )
PWR OUTLET, CIG, SRS-ACC

on AM1 fuse nothing on the left side and 12 v the left side,

thank you veru much
 

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on the dash board I got just the light for doors open and airbag flashing ( there was no airbag when I bought the car 3 year ago ),

on this model there are no automatic windows, ABS, air condition
 

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( and I confirm the generator is not charging the battery, let the car on for 30 min and the voltage on the battery was dropping )
 
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