[Londongirl_2008]

I always get my cars sprayed with oil as I keep them 10+ years. Last car 1997 grand am = no rust - beautiful shape when i traded it

 

[intrigued66]

I've seen many many newer cars and trucks up here in the rust belt rusted out. Our 05 Town&Country was rusting and 3 others I looked at to replace it were to.
Fords are poorly rust proofed too, Chevy's not to bad.

I will definitely be getting our 09 Rav4 rust proofed and under coated just like I have done with my 97 GMC truck which has little to no rust anywhere. I do follow behind the rust proofing myself and protect everything I can. My last Ford truck had no floor left. Never buy a used car from the Cleveland area, I think they just make the roads out of salt. The underside of used ones from there that make it here have been eaten alive.

 

[sean20202020]

People say, recent vehicle does not need after market undercoating...
My 7.5 years old Rav4 is here.
Pictures are from rear suspension area
(some part are blur because my camera lens had dust)
Now I regret I did not coat at the first year.

I sprayed some rust check last year.
and brushed bearing grease last month.
but it look getting worse every month.

My the other SUV of Hyundai has some rust too.
but I found Rav4's frame steel, bolt and nuts are thinner and weaker.

My plan is to order Fluid Film gallon and spray.

 

[ROLLTIDE]

Petro Canada and Esso stations offer an underbody jet spray wash and anti-rust coating done through their touch-less car washes. You can choose to pay only for this feature, or pay more and get the traditional car wash and wax. Bottom line.... do these "under body washes" through out the winter to keep salt off your RAV.

 

[Rickl]

My plan is to order Fluid Film gallon and spray.

I have made many posts in these forums expressing how much I believe in oil sprays. I think your decision to spray your RAV is a good one, but here are a few thoughts.

My experience with Fluid Film is that it is an excellent product, almost a miracle product in the way that it starts bubbling and removing existing rust when applied.

The areas in your photographs are not the areas that you really need to worry about. The important areas are inside door panels and along folded seams. In other words the areas that you can't see.

You can't get at these areas without drilling holes along the door and fender edges, and then using compressed air and a long spray wand to apply the atomized oil inside the panels. If you don't have the equipment to do this, you would be better off taking your RAV to Krown or Rust Check and paying them to do the work. They could probably do the entire job at no additional cost to doing it yourself with Fluid Film which is rather expensive.

 

[sean20202020]

Thanks for inputs.

Petro Canada, wash include Underbody rust inhibitor, is for $12,
SuperWash Car Wash - Petro-Canada
I don't want to rely on the inhibitor thing.

Krown will cost $120 + tax = $135 each = $270 for both SUVs.
And it need to spray again anyway.

Fluid Film plan is to get Kit #1 that comes with 1 gallon, 1 spray can, air sprayer,
360 degree wand nozzle for spray can and hole plugs. for $120 delivered.
With it I can spray my 2 SUVs.

but I don't have air compressor, I need 2 HP 5 scfm compressor for $150~250... :shrug:
Instead of buying a compressor, I will try to use just regular spray plastic bottle.
which is needed to be warmed up in hot water pan. Then I can spray the underbody if my research works.

For the door, fender, panels, I will put the wand nozzle into the door's drain holes,
cargo door drain hole, rear stop lamps inner and fender corner gaps.

But I don't know how to access the rocker panel without drilling holes.
I hope I can access easily like this one;

 

[Rickl]

Fluid Film plan is to get Kit #1 that comes with 1 gallon, 1 spray can, air sprayer, 360 degree wand nozzle for spray can and hole plugs. for $120 delivered.
With it I can spray my 2 SUVs.

but I don't have air compressor, I need 2 HP 5 scfm compressor for $150~250... :shrug:

You have done some good research. That is a great price for the Fluid Film considering it costs $15 at Canadian Tire for a small aerosol can. I'm not sure that the little extension nozzle will provide enough reach into hidden body panels. This would be especially true if you are trying to feed it into the drain holes on the bottom of the doors.

I have seen people connect a length of steel brake line to the spray bottle. The other end is closed except for some small holes which atomize the oil as it escapes. A 4' wand will reach from one edge of a door to the other, or into the farthest corners of a fender. The oil doesn't have to spray directly on every piece of metal, because the entire cavity is filled with an oily fog which settles on everything in the panel. Of course that requires drilling small holes into the door and fender edges. Just be careful that you don't drill into the latching mechanism.

You should also consider the purchase of an air compressor. You will find many uses for it around the house. Everything from doing the seasonal tire changes, to blowing out dusty computers, and getting the water out of the lawn irrigation system before each winter. I consider mine one of my more useful tool purchases. This model at CTC was on sale for about $125 a week ago. It is just a re-branded version of the one I bought at Costco, and it has very good specs for the price. You can always add a larger tank later if you need more air capacity

 

[sean20202020]

You should also consider the purchase of an air compressor. You will find many uses for it around the house. Everything from doing the seasonal tire changes, to blowing out dusty computers, and getting the water out of the lawn irrigation system before each winter. I consider mine one of my more useful tool purchases. This model at CTC was on sale for about $125 a week ago. It is just a re-branded version of the one I bought at Costco, and it has very good specs for the price. You can always add a larger tank later if you need more air capacity

That's the minimum compressor I have to buy.
Good price on sale, but also need an air tool kit including hose and tire injector etc.
and it's hard to resist impulse buy, air ratchet, air hammer and impact.
so even on sale, total will be easily $200~$250+.

Except oil spraying, I don't really need a compressor.
For computer dust- maybe I clean once per 5 years.
I might use an air gun for engine bay or air filter dust blowing.
Tire air- I use a mini compressor to topup.
No lawn water system.
Impact drive- I use electric one.
and the compressor should be empty after every usage...
and my single garage is almost packed with stuffs.

BTW, How much was the compressor at Costco? When? No tools included?
---> this is impulse:wall

 

[vanib]

I have used Metropolitan (Antirouille in Quebec) for 2 years on the RAV i.e. since I bought it used.

There is still rust around the suspension areas.

I had my doors drilled where they spray the dripless anti-rust oil. When I removed my cargo door panel, it was bone dry!!! I know it is supposed be be biodegradable but the interior was dry to the touch after 8 months

Then when my RAV was rear ended , I was able to have a look at the rear bumper; it looked like the bumper of a 30-year old car; Metropolitan completely missed the rear bumper area. With the new bumper, I sprayed the dripless oil from a can I had purchased from Metropolitan a year before.

Last week, when I replace a front fender, I remove the front bumper cover; same story; The black shroud was obviously never removed and the front bumper area was never sprayed. All the welds on the front bumper are rusting. Toyota totally missed the boat on bolts and welds. it's a pity.

As for the fender that I took out, only the top was coated with the thick dripless oil. I guess it was thick from the 2 coats it received in the past 2 years but there was no oil on the sides on the fender. Apparently it was all washed off or worse, never applied!!! I frankly think it was never applied in that area.

I am now thinking that Metropolitan uses different dripless oil in the doors and fender compared to the one used under under the car. When the oil used under the RAV hits the mudflaps and nerf bar, it sticks to them and will to come out even after 2 years unless you take a degreaser to it. Compare this to the doors which are bone dry.

I am now planning to ask them to just use the old anti-rust oil (that drips for 3 days) under the RAV and on the fenders but keep the dripless for the doors. I just hate those dust-magnet oil stains (although that's a sign the oil is creeping and doing it's job) at the bottom of the doors.

I am also considering buying 4 or 5 cans of antirust and spray them myself.

 

[Rickl]

That's the minimum compressor I have to buy.
and it's hard to resist impulse buy, air ratchet, air hammer and impact.

BTW, How much was the compressor at Costco? When? No tools included?
---> this is impulse:wall

I paid ~$125 at Costco about 5 years ago with no tools at all. I have seen the same compressor branded with several names since then, including "Hot Dog" at Canadian tire.

This compressor is great for household use because it has one of the fastest flow rates in it's price range (5.1 CFM @ 40 PSI and 4.1 CFM @ 90 PSI) and a fairly small tank (5 gallons) so that it fills and shuts off quickly. What's the point in having a 25 gallon tank if it takes 10 minutes to fill before you have enough pressure to blow the dust off your keyboard. It is also oil lubricated to provide a longer life, and somewhat reduced noise level. This combination is perfect for filling tires and removing lug nuts. I connect a a larger 10 gallon tank to the manifold when I need more volume for blowing out the sprinkler system.

The only tools I own are the digital tire inflator,an inexpensive impact wrench, a brad nailer, and a couple of blower tools. These were all purchased from Princess Auto during a sale.

You sound like you are well equipped with other tools, and a compressor can be very useful. Come on, you know you want one.

 

[Rickl]

I have used Metropolitan (Antirouille in Quebec) for 2 years
There is still rust around the suspension areas.

I had my doors drilled where they spray the dripless anti-rust oil. When I removed my cargo door panel, it was bone dry!!! I know it is supposed be be biodegradable but the interior was dry to the touch after 8 months

I am now planning to ask them to just use the old anti-rust oil (that drips for 3 days) under the RAV and on the fenders but keep the dripless for the doors. I just hate those dust-magnet oil stains (although that's a sign the oil is creeping and doing it's job) at the bottom of the doors.

I'm not familiar with Metropolitan or their products. It looks like Ottawa is their only location outside of Quebec. Your experiences are nothing like my own.

It is not unusual to get rust on the underbody suspension areas, because these areas are constantly exposed to the eroding effects of tire spray. These areas are also a very thick metal so a little rust isn't as critical.

I have only used Oil Tech and Krown to treat my cars. After treatment my cars do drip for 3-4 days. Fortunately there is no permanent damage to the asphalt driveway, and the rain washes the stains wash away in about 2-3 months.

The secret to a good treatment is in the application method. You can't just poor a quart of oil into each door cavity. The oil needs to be atomized so that a "fog" of oil fills the entire cavity. When done properly you can see the fog leaking from every small opening at the opposite end from where the application wand has been inserted.

As you mentioned, you will also see circular oil stains developing at the bottoms of the doors for almost a year after application. These stains are caused by oil dripping from the drain holes and "creeping" upwards on the outer door skin. That gives you a good idea of what's happening on the inner door skins. I know the whole process sounds messy, but if you wash your vehicle every 2-3 weeks you will never notice the oil seepage. I never wash my vehicles over the winter months, and I never spray the underbody at any time of year, because I don't want to wash away any oil residue.

 

[vanib]

There is no way the Metropolitan dripless formula is getting atomized unless they are a solvent at their tank. What comes out of the can that I purchase from them is thick and gooey.

 

[sean20202020]

Then when my RAV was rear ended , I was able to have a look at the rear bumper; it looked like the bumper of a 30-year old car

I've noticed my rear bumper fully covered by the red color thin rust. I'll spray.

You sound like you are well equipped with other tools, and a compressor can be very useful. Come on, you know you want one.

Not really with only tools...
my garage is packed with 3 bicycles, winter tires, garden tools and old books and other garbages.
please.. I don't want to take your bait...

One thing I like from recent purchase is the cheap tool chest cabinet.
That was on sale at Walmart Canada for $70 with socket sets.
Some Walmarts still sell that as clearance.

The storage rack is from CanadianTire sale for $19 lastweek

 

[vanib]

That's a good deal.