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I think we are just speculating that the limit is 1000 watts.

If the battery connection is the same as the Prius, there is a fuse near the positive terminal. If someone can post the value, we will have a better idea if the current rating is higher. I speculate that it is not higher as the battery size looks the same as in the Prius and Toyota appears to be using the HV battery for their 1500 watt inverters in other hybrid models. Again, all speculation.

I purchased a 1000 watt, 2000 watt peak, true sine wave inverter but have not installed it yet as it is just a back up to my inverter generator.

Does anyone know for sure the power limit for the DC-DC converter, or are we just speculating that it’s the same as the Prius (i.e. ~1000 W)? I’m about to pull the trigger on my inverter setup, and I’ll spring for the 1500 W model if I can actually utilize that much power, but I’d rather save some money/space and go for the 1000 W model if I’m bottlenecked to 1000 at the DC-DC anyway.
 
There was a company, Converdant, I think, that used to do the high-voltage mod to connect to the Prius hybrid battery and then you had an external inverter that looked like a PC tower. I think it was well over $1000 plus $500 for the battery connection mod and would risk voiding your hybrid system and battery warranty. Not surprisingly, they don’t do those anymore. Especially, now that the warranty goes to 10yr/150K miles.

There is a lot more interest in backup generators among ordinary folks, these days. PG&E just pleaded guilty to something like 80 counts of manslaughter related to the wind-fueled California fires which probably ensures that above a certain wind speed (45 mph gusts or something) power companies are going to be implementing regular blackouts to reduce fire risk. Most people are stocking up a lot more in their refrigerators and freezers, these days, due to sheltering-in which makes any outage more than inconvenient. Even if you have a portable backup generator, having another one that travels with your vehicle seems very worthwhile at certain times.
 
Yeah that's got to be it. Notice the orange plug. 1500w is disappointing, however - clearly the battery can supply immensely more power than that and Toyota could have put a bigger inverter. You can DIY and get basically the same feature for a few hundred bucks yourself. You lose efficiency with the DC - DC conversion to 12v, maybe 5-10 percent but whatever.
I was pretty impressed with 1500W

How much power do you want? You can DIY but it will never be in that form factor and be as clean. just cables alone would take up considerable space since you’ll be using at least 2GA
 
I was pretty impressed with 1500W

How much power do you want? You can DIY but it will never be in that form factor and be as clean. just cables alone would take up considerable space since you’ll be using at least 2GA
The vehicle is capable of easily supplying 240 volts at 30 or 50 amps. 240*50=12,000 watts, or 16 horsepower.

Theoretically Toyota could, instead of installing an inverter, install a contactor box that would disconnect the inverter for the rear drive motor and connect the inverter to an RV plug. And then the main drive inverter would just run at a lower frequency. There may be reasons this won't work but I suspect it will. (one phase to Line +, one phase to Line -, one phase to neutral to emulate neutral)
 
The vehicle is capable of easily supplying 240 volts at 30 or 50 amps. 240*50=12,000 watts, or 16 horsepower.

Theoretically Toyota could, instead of installing an inverter, install a contactor box that would disconnect the inverter for the rear drive motor and connect the inverter to an RV plug. And then the main drive inverter would just run at a lower frequency. There may be reasons this won't work but I suspect it will. (one phase to Line +, one phase to Line -, one phase to neutral to emulate neutral)
I thought you were going to say 2k or something...12,000 watts!

Yes it can, but who needs that kind of power in this type of vehicle? What do you need 12k watts from a compact CUV for? To power a small festival? Even if you wanted to power your home you don't need 12k watts. If your home does I suspect you have the means to buy a stand alone home generator.

Who will be willing to pay for it once its been engineered, tested, and built? Where would they package this carry on size inverter?
 
I thought you were going to say 2k or something...12,000 watts!

Yes it can, but who needs that kind of power in this type of vehicle? What do you need 12k watts from a compact CUV for? To power a small festival? Even if you wanted to power your home you don't need 12k watts. If your home does I suspect you have the means to buy a stand alone home generator.

Who will be willing to pay for it once its been engineered, tested, and built? Where would they package this carry on size inverter?
The power would primarily be for "vehicle to grid". This does require those "million mile" batteries, present EV batteries don't have the longevity.

However, a home can draw 12k watts at peak load. Electric clothes dryer + air conditioner (5 ton AC is 4000-6000 watts) + electric oven or stove + everything else.

Yes, here in California that's rare. ACs are smaller, about 1-ton, and draw more like 600-1200 watts. Stoves and ovens and water heats and dryers are all gas. Lighting barely uses anything, and computers and TVs have gotten more efficient.

It would be a firmware change to an existing inverter, and less than $100 in contactors (high current relays)
 
Theoretically Toyota could, instead of installing an inverter, install a contactor box that would disconnect the inverter for the rear drive motor and connect the inverter to an RV plug. And then the main drive inverter would just run at a lower frequency. There may be reasons this won't work but I suspect it will. (one phase to Line +, one phase to Line -, one phase to neutral to emulate neutral)
This is an interesting idea, but there are tons of questions. The main one is that the existing motor likely has a particular voltage:frequency ratio. It's not certain that 60hz occurs at 120vac. But there probably is some voltage range available. Also, does anyone know that the drive motors are running on a sine wave? I've seen systems that are basically very fancy stepper drives. -OK, I tried to find a bit more information, although it's a bit old. I think the main issue is that the system is designed for very high voltages, and getting 120vac out of it could be difficult. The other is that this is a delta configuration, there is no way to get a neutral.

Of course, non of this says that Toyota couldn't do this. And maybe once we start pushing power back into the grid with our cars, maybe this could be an easy secondary feature.
 
power requirements for homes are wildly different depending on where you live. I live in Phoenix, AZ, and homes here and maybe Florida probably can use more electricity on average than homes anywhere else in the country due to the heat, haha. I have two 3 ton A/C systems (about 7-8kw when both on I think), combine that with a clothes dryer, electric stovetop/oven, electric water heater, I can easily hit 20kw at the same time if I want to (although I rarely am running all that equipment at the same time).
 
I was in a position where my load requirements for my home was 12KW. I lived in a townhouse in Florida that had sliding doors instead of windows. This meant that I could not buy a small window A/C for long term power outages after a hurricane. Having 12KW from my car would have meant that I could run my old school, single speed compressor 3 Ton A/C. Thankfully I live in a place now where I have windows and a 5000 BTU A/C in storage for power outages. My total load now is run by my 3000 watt inverter generator. If the generator were to fail. I would cycle the 5000 BTU A/C and the refrigerator plugged into my 1KW true sine wave inverter and run it off my Prius.

No A/C in the summer in Florida for weeks is no fun, especially with someone who has health issues.

A 240 volt, Toyota built inverter kit would be nice.

I thought you were going to say 2k or something...12,000 watts!

Yes it can, but who needs that kind of power in this type of vehicle? What do you need 12k watts from a compact CUV for? To power a small festival? Even if you wanted to power your home you don't need 12k watts. If your home does I suspect you have the means to buy a stand alone home generator.

Who will be willing to pay for it once its been engineered, tested, and built? Where would they package this carry on size inverter?
 
1500 W conversion from 12 V battery to high voltage will suck almost 200 Ampers from your battery. So you must have thick wires between the battery and convertor. Be carefull or you will burn your car.
This is what a fuse is for, like so. (this is only a hookup for 15-25 amps). This is on a Prius though the Rav4 hybrid/prime have an almost identical battery location and type.
154433
 
That does seem small. It's also a prius, maybe it has a smaller convertor? And it also might be designed so that it's lossy, but still safe for heavy loads, with thinking being that normal loads are much less. I think my present car has two incandescent bulbs, all the rest are LEDs.
 
All right, continuing the discussion around post #37, rather than tear down half my interior to take a peek at a fuse, I decided to pay $20 for a 2-day TIS subscription and just check out the wiring diagrams. The fuse from the DC-DC converter to the auxiliary batter is 140 amps, at least according to the diagrams for my 2020 RAV4 Hybrid.

I also checked out the RAV4 Prime, and sure enough it has a 180 A fuse, which makes sense, since somebody mentioned that a 1500 W AC outlet is a standard option. It looks like the newest Prius has a 120 A fuse, and most people report a limit of about 1000 W for those inverter setups.

So, I would assume the gen 5 RAV4 Hybrid limit is somewhere between the two. Going with the 3/4 safety factor, (3/4)x(140 A)x(12V) = 1260 W would be a good guess. Or directly comparing against the Prime, (140 A/180 A)x(1500 W) = 1167 W.

Given this, I’d like to shoot for a 1200 W inverter, however there do not seem to be many available on the market, and the ones I have found are not from reputable manufacturers. The only reason I haven’t overkilled it and pulled the trigger on a nice 1500 W model is I can’t find one that will fit between my spare tire and the floor cover, whereas many 1000 W models will. This 1200 W model looks okay, has good reviews, and should fit in the spare compartment; not sure about the manufacturer though…
 
All right, continuing the discussion around post #37, rather than tear down half my interior to take a peek at a fuse, I decided to pay $20 for a 2-day TIS subscription and just check out the wiring diagrams. The fuse from the DC-DC converter to the auxiliary batter is 140 amps, at least according to the diagrams for my 2020 RAV4 Hybrid.

I also checked out the RAV4 Prime, and sure enough it has a 180 A fuse, which makes sense, since somebody mentioned that a 1500 W AC outlet is a standard option. It looks like the newest Prius has a 120 A fuse, and most people report a limit of about 1000 W for those inverter setups.

So, I would assume the gen 5 RAV4 Hybrid limit is somewhere between the two. Going with the 3/4 safety factor, (3/4)x(140 A)x(12V) = 1260 W would be a good guess. Or directly comparing against the Prime, (140 A/180 A)x(1500 W) = 1167 W.

Given this, I’d like to shoot for a 1200 W inverter, however there do not seem to be many available on the market, and the ones I have found are not from reputable manufacturers. The only reason I haven’t overkilled it and pulled the trigger on a nice 1500 W model is I can’t find one that will fit between my spare tire and the floor cover, whereas many 1000 W models will. This 1200 W model looks okay, has good reviews, and should fit in the spare compartment; not sure about the manufacturer though…
Nice!

Interesting that the R4P has a larger fuse for the DC to DC converter, because the 1500W inverter that comes with the premium package is operated via the traction battery, not the 12v circuit. I wonder what the extra 12v amperage capability is for on the Prime (maybe battery warmers? I'd imagine those are operated off of the 12v circuit since LA batteries manages cold weather better than LIon). If you still have access to that TIS subscription, it'd be nice to know what else is different electrically from the Prime and Hybrid (12v LA battery size, any other fuse size changes?)
 
Nice!

Interesting that the R4P has a larger fuse for the DC to DC converter, because the 1500W inverter that comes with the premium package is operated via the traction battery, not the 12v circuit. I wonder what the extra 12v amperage capability is for on the Prime (maybe battery warmers? I'd imagine those are operated off of the 12v circuit since LA batteries manages cold weather better than LIon). If you still have access to that TIS subscription, it'd be nice to know what else is different electrically from the Prime and Hybrid (12v LA battery size, any other fuse size changes?)
Oh yeah, duh. Maybe they put the 180 A fuse there for us DIYers, or those too cheap to pay for the Toyota outlet.
 
Heated rear seats? Is that in any other model? Heated wiper land? Again, not sure what's only available in the Prime.
 
Heated rear seats? Is that in any other model? Heated wiper land? Again, not sure what's only available in the Prime.
Good call, there's probably another 10 amps or so that come from that.

Also, about the too cheap to pay for the plug itself - damn right! that's the only thing I want in a package that costs 5-6K more than I want to spend, haha.
 
So I just went out to look at my prius prime and look at the wires. Can't see much that might be useful, as it turns out. But I did notice something else. It sure looks like there is a hall sensor on the 12 battery negative terminal. With the correct OBDII reader, you might be able to monitor current in/out of the battery. Of course, I don't know what's on the various other models.
 
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