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Also, about the too cheap to pay for the plug itself - damn right! that's the only thing I want in a package that costs 5-6K more than I want to spend, haha.
Too bad you can’t get the Premium package without the other two packages.
PackageMRSPInvoiceDifference
Weather 815 727 88
Audio16201441179
Premium33252959366
Total57605127633
 
So the Rav4H is fused at the same 140 Amps as the Gen 3 Prius. See video at 2:32 in,

All right, continuing the discussion around post #37, rather than tear down half my interior to take a peek at a fuse, I decided to pay $20 for a 2-day TIS subscription and just check out the wiring diagrams. The fuse from the DC-DC converter to the auxiliary batter is 140 amps, at least according to the diagrams for my 2020 RAV4 Hybrid.

I also checked out the RAV4 Prime, and sure enough it has a 180 A fuse, which makes sense, since somebody mentioned that a 1500 W AC outlet is a standard option. It looks like the newest Prius has a 120 A fuse, and most people report a limit of about 1000 W for those inverter setups.

So, I would assume the gen 5 RAV4 Hybrid limit is somewhere between the two. Going with the 3/4 safety factor, (3/4)x(140 A)x(12V) = 1260 W would be a good guess. Or directly comparing against the Prime, (140 A/180 A)x(1500 W) = 1167 W.

Given this, I’d like to shoot for a 1200 W inverter, however there do not seem to be many available on the market, and the ones I have found are not from reputable manufacturers. The only reason I haven’t overkilled it and pulled the trigger on a nice 1500 W model is I can’t find one that will fit between my spare tire and the floor cover, whereas many 1000 W models will. This 1200 W model looks okay, has good reviews, and should fit in the spare compartment; not sure about the manufacturer though…
 
In case anyone else is interested in finding a 1500 W inverter that fits in the spare compartment, I went with this one. I put a 120 A ANL fuse between it and the battery to keep myself from overdoing it. It works well so far and fits PERFECTLY on top of the jack in the spare compartment. It might even mitigate the weak trunk floor issue, although I assume any significant load will end up bending the mounting brackets on the bottom of the unit (fine with me, I don't plan to use them heh). It has ~okay reviews and is made in China, but it's sold by a fairly well known American company that stands by their products.
 
So I’ve done some experimenting and I’m pretty sure 1000 W is about the limit for the DC-DC converter. My heat gun pulls ~1300 W on its highest setting in a wall outlet, and it pulls ~1200 W from my inverter. I left it on full blast while watching the battery voltage. It quickly dropped down to 11.8 V and was decreasing very slowly (until I burnt out my $8, 120 A fuse lol, so I popped a 150 A in there). I set it to pull 1150 W and it was still creeping downward. Then I turned the heat gun down a bit to pull ~1000 W and the voltage quickly went up to 13.3 V and continued to increase slowly. So I think I found the limit.
Bummer. I was hoping to get a bit more power out of it.
 
I would love to do this! One thing I wish our XSE had was the AC outlet in the right rear. Is there any way to add it and if so is the wiring already behind the panel?

Could someone install an inverter and possibly allow plug in charging of the hybrid battery?
 
I would love to do this! One thing I wish our XSE had was the AC outlet in the right rear. Is there any way to add it and if so is the wiring already behind the panel?

Could someone install an inverter and possibly allow plug in charging of the hybrid battery?
To run that much power you would need large cables. So I doubt the cables are already there. How much power do you plan on using?

No you would not be able to charge the high voltage hybrid battery. Why would you want to when the engine does such a good job of charging the small hybrid battery?
 
To run that much power you would need large cables. So I doubt the cables are already there. How much power do you plan on using?

No you would not be able to charge the high voltage hybrid battery. Why would you want to when the engine does such a good job of charging the small hybrid battery?
Just a thought. :)

We had looked at the TRD Off-road and Adventure trim lines until our fleet salesman told us that the wait time was 60 to 90 days out. :(. What I imagined doing was plugging in a small cooler for road trips instead of needing to buy bags of ice. Possibly be a plug for my laptop charging cable.
 
Just a thought. :)

We had looked at the TRD Off-road and Adventure trim lines until our fleet salesman told us that the wait time was 60 to 90 days out. :(. What I imagined doing was plugging in a small cooler for road trips instead of needing to buy bags of ice. Possibly be a plug for my laptop charging cable.
Check out one of these then:

There's all different styles. I liked the one above because it was cheap, and good for shorter road trips. Some of the more expensive units have actual compressors (opposed to the thermoelectric cooler that this unit has): Compressors use far less power, cool quicker, and can cool beyond 32F. Downside is that they cost way more, are noisy, and may be overkill for what you'd use it for.

Looking at some of the reviews on this unit, it appears like using it with some ice will help during those few hours when you may have the car off, or when you put something warm in the ice can do the quick cooling. When you get to a hotel, you just carry the cooler up with a 5amp rectifier that plugs into an outlet to keep it running up there. I imagine you'll only need new ice maybe every 5-7 days, instead of every other day (depending on how often you can keep it plugged in).
 
Thank you!! I'd really like to find a way to install that AC outlet in the back like you can get from the factory if I can. Thank you for the cooler option as well! That looks like it would be a good road trip cooler.

I'd definitely avoid a thermoelectric based cooler and go for a compressor based one. On the low end check out Massimo fridges. They were sold at Costco for $300. The coolers are 12V so no inverter needed. These will keep ice cream frozen in a hot car.


Comes in 30,40,50L sizes.

To power it for camp use look at the Dometic PLB40 or a Jackery 500. Plugs into your 12v cig, when you turn the car off you still have power from the portable battery and your car battery will stay full. And you can power by solar. You can power your laptop from these no problem. If thats all you're running something like this will work. Also great for power outages/emergencies.


I have built several solar systems, solar generators, dual battery systems for vehicles and there are so many options now it doesn't make sense to DIY (especially if you're not savvy with electronics/wiring).
 
So I’ve done some experimenting and I’m pretty sure 1000 W is about the limit for the DC-DC converter. My heat gun pulls ~1300 W on its highest setting in a wall outlet, and it pulls ~1200 W from my inverter. I left it on full blast while watching the battery voltage. It quickly dropped down to 11.8 V and was decreasing very slowly (until I burnt out my $8, 120 A fuse lol, so I popped a 150 A in there). I set it to pull 1150 W and it was still creeping downward. Then I turned the heat gun down a bit to pull ~1000 W and the voltage quickly went up to 13.3 V and continued to increase slowly. So I think I found the limit.
Bummer. I was hoping to get a bit more power out of it.
I've read this thread with great interest, I'm receiving my r4p SE (so no 1500w for me) next w-e. I hope I can pull DC juice from it to power DC devices directly and maybe an inverter too.
 
I've read this thread with great interest, I'm receiving my r4p SE (so no 1500w for me) next w-e. I hope I can pull DC juice from it to power DC devices directly and maybe an inverter too.
You can definitely pull 12 V DC off the aux battery, not the high voltage hybrid battery (unless you want to void the shit out of your warranty, and maybe die).
I believe the Prime has a bigger DC-DC converter, so you should be able to install your own inverter and actually get 1500 W out of it.
 
I've read this thread with great interest, I'm receiving my r4p SE (so no 1500w for me) next w-e. I hope I can pull DC juice from it to power DC devices directly and maybe an inverter too.
Wonder if the 12v battery has the wiring needed to do that since the car is started by the MG2. It wouldn’t need a heavy gauge cable to the 12v. I haven’t looked under the hood yet 😀

You might be better served with a portable battery pack like a Jackery 1000
 
You can definitely pull 12 V DC off the aux battery, not the high voltage hybrid battery (unless you want to void the shit out of your warranty, and maybe die).
I believe the Prime has a bigger DC-DC converter, so you should be able to install your own inverter and actually get 1500 W out of it.
Word around here is the Prime's inverter is feed from the three phase HV battery`. Are you stating that the single phase 12 volt DC back to the aux battery is a larger capacity or stating that the user Maxlem should tap off the three phase HV battery or converter taps? Perhaps we could get someone at the Prime forum to look at the fuse on top of the battery to see if its bigger than 120 amp as every other Toyota 4 cylinder Hybrid has. Not sure what the 6 cylinders use(d).
 
Thanks for your replies. My original (naive) plan was to install a 365 to 12 dc-dc converter, but since there's one already I just need to understand where I can connect myself to in order to pull significant amperage from it.

An inverter would be handy for some usecases, but direct DC juice too (think RV appliances)


Where can I dig that info?

Detailed manuals, etc?
 
Word around here is the Prime's inverter is feed from the three phase HV battery`. Are you stating that the single phase 12 volt DC back to the aux battery is a larger capacity or stating that the user Maxlem should tap off the three phase HV battery or converter taps? Perhaps we could get someone at the Prime forum to look at the fuse on top of the battery to see if its bigger than 120 amp as every other Toyota 4 cylinder Hybrid has. Not sure what the 6 cylinders use(d).
That is correct on the inverter, it’s a slick unit as aftermarket inverters this size are pretty large


I’ll check out my Prime XSE to confirm fuse. Should probably read up on jump starting too, I would assume the hybrid would never need a jump since it’s fed by the HV battery?
 
Word around here is the Prime's inverter is feed from the three phase HV battery`. Are you stating that the single phase 12 volt DC back to the aux battery is a larger capacity or stating that the user Maxlem should tap off the three phase HV battery or converter taps? Perhaps we could get someone at the Prime forum to look at the fuse on top of the battery to see if its bigger than 120 amp as every other Toyota 4 cylinder Hybrid has. Not sure what the 6 cylinders use(d).
I’m saying I think I read that you can pull a higher current off the 12 V battery on the Primes because their high voltage to 12 V converter (which charges the 12 V battery) can supply a higher wattage.
I assume (but don’t know) that the XSE inverter pulls straight off the high voltage battery, but that’s not really an aftermarket option (without a lot of risk).
 
That is correct on the inverter, it’s a slick unit as aftermarket inverters this size are pretty large


I’ll check out my Prime XSE to confirm fuse. Should probably read up on jump starting too, I would assume the hybrid would never need a jump since it’s fed by the HV battery?
Yes, I would add a Toyota installed 1500 watt inverter to my XSE in a second if offered and I assume its possible as its offered on the hybrid Highlander and Sienna. Even if the cost was around $2k as I live in Hurricane country and have a special needs person. I like plan a B to my Yamaha inverter generator.

As far as hybrids not needing a jump, many 2020 owners would beg to differ with you as Toyota has or had? a major issue with parasitic drain that have left people stranded with 2020s. No issues so far with 2019s.
 
Thanks for your replies. My original (naive) plan was to install a 365 to 12 dc-dc converter, but since there's one already I just need to understand where I can connect myself to in order to pull significant amperage from it.

An inverter would be handy for some usecases, but direct DC juice too (think RV appliances)


Where can I dig that info?

Detailed manuals, etc?
Did you read the rest of this thread? It’s all about pulling 1000+ W off the 12 V battery in the cargo area. I plug my 1500 W inverter into a quick-connect plug I have wired up to the battery, but I also made myself some quick-connect raw terminals so I can easily power 12 V devices without the 120 W limit of the cigarette lighter outlets (or the restriction of the car being on). Basically like putting clamps directly on the battery without having to tear the cargo bay apart.
 
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