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Rear License Plate Screw Stuck

40K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  iowa530  
#1 ·
Last week I was helping a friend remove the license plate screws from his car. The screws were rusted and we snapped off 3 of the 4 screws. His new license plate is currently held on by 1 screw. This got me to thinking about the rusted screws on the back of my 2008 Rav4. I decided I would change them to stainless (I'm due for new tags in February). I managed to get one screw out, but the other would not budge. They are/were slotted -panhead screws.

Here is what I tried:
WD-40 - hard to get into the screw because the license plate is in the way.

Impact driver - never got a good bite. Screw head eventually stripped.

Hack saw blade to cut a better slot in the top of the screw.

Vice Grip pliers - the head of the screw is really flat and there is just not enough sticking up to grab.

Grabbit bit - this was a reverse threaded screw removal tool. I didin't work, and just left a hole in the screw head.

Drilling - I've never drilled a screw out before. I have started the process and now have a hole in the screw.

For drilling this out, do I just continue with larger bits until I remove all of the old screw material?

Is there some way to remove the rear interior door panel to access the back of the screw?

Is there a way to remove the exterior license plate panel? It seems to be its own plastic panel.

:wall

TIA
 
#2 ·
You should be able to un-snap the back plastic panel on the swing-out door. This should give you clearance to get a pair of pliers on the back of the screw and twist it out...

[edit] a plastic pry-tool will help greatly with this. Don't use a screwdriver, unless you want to risk scraping the plastic
 
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#3 ·
If you go with the drill method, you can graudually increase the size of the bits until the head falls off. Then switch back to a thinner bit in order to drill the screw shaft from the middle.

A screw tap would also work but might not be necessary for such a small job.

I put antiseize on the bolts when I first screwed them on and have remove them a few times without problem.
 
#5 ·
Update: I removed the rear doo interior panel tonight. Luckily, I didn't break any clips. There was not much room to work, but I managed to get some small vice grips into the opening and tried twisting the screw out from the back. No luck, the part of the screw that was sticking out snapped off. I went back and finished drilling it out.

Of course since I got a late start, I will have to wait until tomorrow to buy a tap to re-tap the hole. I also plan to buy all new stainless steal screws for all 3 of my vehicles. This has been a lot of trouble that could have been prevented easily for a few bucks. Nearly 30 years of driving and maintaining cars, and I've never had this problem before.
 
#6 ·
When I lived in Minnesota in what then must have been the champion U.S. winter salter of roads, I used nylon screws for my license plates and didn't have any problems removing them when I needed to. They survived even the -40F winter blasts.
 
#7 ·
I was able to buy a tap last night. 6 mm/1.0. First time I've ever used a tap, but it went smoothly. I bought all new stainless steal screws for all 3 of my cars. Got the plate re-installed and snapped the interior panel back on.

I still need to get some anti-seize compound to go on the threads. Maybe this weekend.

I wax my cars about 2-3 times a year. My plan is to remove the tags when I do that and inspect the screws.

This has been a PITA, but it has allowed me to learn a few things. How to drill a screw, tap a new screw hole, remove the door panel... Also learned that I need some better lighting in my garage.

Thanks for all the suggestions.