Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
21 - 40 of 40 Posts
When you say "missing," I am not sure what you mean. It seems to be driving normally so probably not "missing." Some forums said the blinking CEL could result in damage to catalytic converter which is an expensive fix. So I am a bit worried about driving it and will make do with my bicycle till Tuesday.
Missing means the engine runs very rough and is way down on power. If it's driving anywhere near normally it isn't missing.
I disagree with the catalytic converter damage theory. That might've been true on a carburetted engine of 20-30 years ago because unburned gas would be dumping into the exhaust. But with fuel injection and one injector for each cylinder that doesn't happen since ASA the ECM detects a miss it shuts the fuel off on that cylinder.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Missing means the engine runs very rough and is way down on power. If it's driving anywhere near normally it isn't missing.
I disagree with the catalytic converter damage theory. That might've been true on a carburetted engine of 20-30 years ago because unburned gas would be dumping into the exhaust. But with fuel injection and one injector for each cylinder that doesn't happen since ASA the ECM detects a miss it shuts the fuel off on that cylinder.
Speaking from my past experience on a camry v6 with a single p0352 code only( coil for number 2 cylinder) with no misfiring code or any other pending code. when I pulled the spark plug out it was soaked with raw gas and it was only driven for less than 2 miles with check engine light on. So I am not sure if the computer will shut the injector off with just ignition coil code. It might shut off the injector if there is a misfiring code as well I guess?
 
Agreed, and if the engine is actually misfiring it's practically undriveable anyway. You park it ASA possible, or as I said clear the code to restore normal power temporarily.
 
So sorry but the last two posts were Greek to me. It would be nice to drive my car but I don't want to risk damaging something expensive to fix. So I am confused: Can I drive it or is the blinking CEL a warning not to?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vee
Thank you both very much ! Luckily I don’t absolutely HAVE to be anywhere in the next two days that I can’t get to on my bike.
 
Just wanted to let you know that I had a mobile mechanic replace my coils and, so far, all is well. I am really hoping I have good luck with the inexpensive coils I bought on Amazon. (I did with the other ones I bought over the past couple of years). Many of the reviews were very good, but some of the bad reviews said the coils failed within a couple of months. I am going to think good thoughts that mine will last at least as long as the 2 year - 24,000 mile warranty that the coils have. Thanks much for all of your great comments and tips!
V
 
Thanks for the update and results. Keep enjoying that V6!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vee
I replaced mine with used ones from eBay for around $13 each. Part number is 90919-a2007. They are supposed to be latest version.
I don't quite get the logic of using "used" ones? Wouldn't you want new ones so they last longer? And why would anyone be selling used ones? Have they been reconditioned or something?
 
Man I would have kept my Exploder longer had the coil replacement prices been reasonable. The best I could find was $150 CDN EACH for Ford Motorcraft. For a V8 (do the math, it’s bloody terrifying!) I looked at Accel or MSD (heck, or anything else) and they still came out at $50 each. Finally as a broke student with two kids, I went to the JY and got handfuls of used coils for $10 each cash. If they worked, great. If nor, I tossed it and tried the next one! With the prices you folks are throwing around for Toyota coils, it’s hard to see any value in going used.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I don't quite get the logic of using "used" ones? Wouldn't you want new ones so they last longer? And why would anyone be selling used ones? Have they been reconditioned or something?
These are what I brought off eBay. $12 each plus tax. The original ones on my rav4 lasted for over 200k miles so I feel pretty confident about original Toyota parts. For me swapping one out from any cylinder position should probably take me less than 10 minutes even if have to do it again on the side of the road, in the dark, while raining. So it is no big deal.
153827
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Man I would have kept my Exploder longer had the coil replacement prices been reasonable. The best I could find was $150 CDN EACH for Ford Motorcraft. For a V8 (do the math, it’s bloody terrifying!) I looked at Accel or MSD (heck, or anything else) and they still came out at $50 each. Finally as a broke student with two kids, I went to the JY and got handfuls of used coils for $10 each cash. If they worked, great. If nor, I tossed it and tried the next one! With the prices you folks are throwing around for Toyota coils, it’s hard to see any value in going used.
The problem with super-low priced brand new Toyota coils on the net is that they are most likely fake or counterfeit items. I would rather buy used ones instead. Spark plugs, coils and brake pads are some of the most popular counterfeit parts.
 
The problem with super-low priced brand new Toyota coils on the net is that they are most likely fake or counterfeit items. I would rather buy used ones instead. Spark plugs, coils and brake pads are some of the most popular counterfeit parts.
Yeah the “white box” coils had very poor reviews. I figured better to drop $40 on used coils I pulled myself than $50 on one that might crap out after a month.
 
Thanks to this thread and this thread, it took about five minutes to replace coil #3 with a Delphi GN10366 using only a 1/4" drive 10mm ratchet wrench. Coil #5 would have been just as easy, and coil #1 seems to be blocked only by a bracket that could be removed independently. The brown connector clip did break off when pressed to release but the connection seems very secure so I'm leaving it alone as others have suggested. OBDII code P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected has not returned, so I'm considering this an easy win at 235K miles!

 
As it turns out, the coil was fine but the plugs were counterfit and failed prematurely, so I just finished replacing them and am following up to confirm that removing the aforementioned bracket allowed easy access to #1. Sweet! Thanks again.
 
Just changed coils and plugs on my '07 V6 this weekend. 177,000 miles, I bought it at 150,000. I took everything out without taking off the intake plenum. Coils were no problem. Getting the plugs out blind and without much room was tough. Granted I don't know when mine were last changed. They looked pretty rough coming out. Because I wanted to be able to torque the plugs and I didn't have much room behind the plenum I took it off to put everything back in. I was wishing I had just done that from the beginning because it was very easy to get off and back on and it made everything SO much easier.

If I was replacing only coils, I would probably do it without removing the intake plenum. If you're doing plugs and coils, just take it off. Add 15 minutes and save some headache.
 
I followed this vid:


Used a 1/4 drive ratchet for a bit and a 3/8 drive for some of it. Didn't need to remove the coil clips, seemed to be enough wire to remove entire coil off of the plug. Granted not a ton of room, but definitely can be accomplished without removing a bunch of stuff. Actually easier than plug changes on other vehicles I have owned.
 
21 - 40 of 40 Posts