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I think somewhere along the way someone figured out that the "correct" resistor is a 4 ohm one. But, it seems that 8 ohm resistors work too. FYI. I used a 4 ohm, 10W one, and it works great.
I doubt they check for an exact value. I will certainly try higher values when I get around to making the mod as they should mean less heat is produced by the resistor.
 

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“So Mr. RAV4h XSE, isn’t it true that you willfully and deliberately disabled a critical safety device that could have prevented these tragic injuries to my poor client, who is now unable to provide for his family and needs constant assistance with simple daily tasks?”

I’ll be leaving mine connected, annoying as it is. ;)
With the invention of a neck, backup camera, and windows, if you hit someone backing up, more than likely, you weren't paying enough attention from the start. I don't know if your RAV has the approaching warning when backing up that beeps and has arrows showing which side someone/thing is coming from, but if I hear it beep and can't see around a bigger vehicle parked next to me, the brakes come on and I stop and look harder or wait.
 

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I’m ready to kill this alien that’s living under my hood.

Got all the parts today for a clean install. This will be a easy plug and unplug of the speaker.

Qty:1 Housing Connector M: Part number: 90980-11168

Qty:2 Terminal Repair W W: Part Number: 82998-12450

Qty:1 10W 8ohm resistor

View attachment 168242 View attachment 168243
Thank you for all the part info. I couldn't stand the noise anymore and took the dive. The hardest part was taking the plastic cover off. Once I got the cover off, it was easy sailing. Well, until I had to put it back in.

Qty:1 Housing Connector M: Part number: 90980-11168 $10.54
Qty:2 Terminal Repair W W: Part Number: 82998-12450 $16.54
Qty 1:10w ohm resister $6.99 on Amazon

Total cost ~$36
Silence.....Priceless!!

Now I won't wake up the whole house when I leave for work in the morning!!

This is the assembled housing connector + 2 repair terminals. The green cables just pushed and snapped in


169127



Here is the resistor, with a little solder to keep it from getting loose.
169128




I wrapped it in some electric tape to protect it from dirt and moisture. I also took a sharpie to color in the green wires
169129




I finally zipped tied it down with a couple of supersonic zip ties.
169130



Zooming in, you can barely see it.
169131
 

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I turn the speaker back on before I take it in for service just in case. The weatherproof box with switch is really cool and allows me to just switch on the demonic angel choir whenever I take it into the dealership. Not sure if the sound will be required to pass a state safety inspection in Texas when it’s due next year.
 

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Thank you for all the part info. I couldn't stand the noise anymore and took the dive. The hardest part was taking the plastic cover off. Once I got the cover off, it was easy sailing. Well, until I had to put it back in.

Qty:1 Housing Connector M: Part number: 90980-11168 $10.54
Qty:2 Terminal Repair W W: Part Number: 82998-12450 $16.54
Qty 1:10w ohm resister $6.99 on Amazon

Total cost ~$36
Silence.....Priceless!!

Now I won't wake up the whole house when I leave for work in the morning!!

This is the assembled housing connector + 2 repair terminals. The green cables just pushed and snapped in


View attachment 169127


Here is the resistor, with a little solder to keep it from getting loose.
View attachment 169128




I wrapped it in some electric tape to protect it from dirt and moisture. I also took a sharpie to color in the green wires
View attachment 169129



I finally zipped tied it down with a couple of supersonic zip ties.
View attachment 169130



Zooming in, you can barely see it.
View attachment 169131
With these awesome pictures and part numbers for everything, I pulled the trigger. Ordered the 2 wires and connector yesterday at Toyota and they showed up today, and the resistor is showing up today from Amazon as well. Sweet silence will be mine for about $36, and it will be worth every penny.
 

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The one change I'd make is not wrapping the resistor with tape since it might get hot. I'd heat shrink the soldered connections but leave the resistor itself bare.
 
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I turn the speaker back on before I take it in for service just in case. The weatherproof box with switch is really cool and allows me to just switch on the demonic angel choir whenever I take it into the dealership. Not sure if the sound will be required to pass a state safety inspection in Texas when it’s due next year.
I like the sound of silence, but eliminating this safety feature can be financially lethal if one gets into an accident with a pedestrian. (I covered my speaker with Peel N Seal Aluminum (Lowe's hardware) to reduce the speaker volume.)
Keith
 

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$37+15 minutes= SILENCE! It is so easy to pull out 5 bolts (10mm) and 5 clips to take that plastic shroud off. Before I put it back together, fired up the car and hit EV Mode and put it in reverse, no warning and no sound. 12mm bolt holding the speaker in, and ziptied the resistor where it was.
169255
 

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Has anyone in this thread learned where the wires come from that feed the AVAS speaker? I would like to install a simple on/off switch inside the car cabin so I can easily disable the AVAS while backing out of my garage as I live in a quiet condo complex. Moreover, garages are diametrically opposed so the sound will amplify and ricochet. Until I solve this (car won't be here for a few weeks) I will just put the defroster on to insure the ICE starts up when I back out, but that is a clunky solution I'd rather change. When the AVAS is switched off I don't mind, in fact I prefer, if the warning message appears that the system isn't working and time to see the dealer, as this will remind me I need to turn it back on. Out and about I have no problem w/ the noise. I could get to the wires at the AVAS and do it there, but it might be better if the source wiring is accessible from within the cabin.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Has anyone in this thread learned where the wires come from that feed the AVAS speaker? I would like to install a simple on/off switch inside the car cabin so I can easily disable the AVAS while backing out of my garage as I live in a quiet condo complex. Moreover, garages are diametrically opposed so the sound will amplify and ricochet. Until I solve this (car won't be here for a few weeks) I will just put the defroster on to insure the ICE starts up when I back out, but that is a clunky solution I'd rather change. When the AVAS is switched off I don't mind, in fact I prefer, if the warning message appears that the system isn't working and time to see the dealer, as this will remind me I need to turn it back on. Out and about I have no problem w/ the noise. I could get to the wires at the AVAS and do it there, but it might be better if the source wiring is accessible from within the cabin.

Thanks in advance!
I found this amongst my collection of documents posted on this forum

It shows the wiring to the VPNS system. It might help.

Connector A9 is the pink and green wires at the module under the hood.

I don't know where connector A45 is located but it looks like this:
169970


It appears that the only line that could be useful is the IG connection to the Vehicle Approaching Speaker Controller and that comes from fuse ECU-IG1 NO.3 which powers all of this:

169971


The G89 junction connector would be your best bet to find how that fuse powers all those devices and see if you can isolate the wire going to the Vehicle Approaching Speaker Controller.

169972


G89 connector looks like this:

169973
 

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Thanks for that. Do you think it's reasonable to assume by installing an inline switch on one of the leads going from A9 to the speaker?
Since connector A9 is the connector I'm pointing to with the red arrow below, if you cut one of these wires and put a switch in between, it would act just like unplugging the noise maker. Now, if you were to try and follow the pink and green wire to a place under the dash, then that would be what it sounds like you're looking for. I would imagine that shortly after connector A9, these wires get lost inside a larger wiring harness leading to A45.

Thank you @juniorkirk for the use of your picture.
170012
 

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Since connector A9 is the connector I'm pointing to with the red arrow below, if you cut one of these wires and put a switch in between, it would act just like unplugging the noise maker. Now, if you were to try and follow the pink and green wire to a place under the dash, then that would be what it sounds like you're looking for. I would imagine that shortly after connector A9, these wires get lost inside a larger wiring harness leading to A45.

Thank you @juniorkirk for the use of your picture.
View attachment 170012
Great thank you very much for that. When the car gets here I will have a look and see if I can find where those wires go. Sounds like a project so we will first see just how obnoxious the sound is backing out of the garage. I have fantasized since I like the idea of the ICE getting its parts lubed before the need to gun it happens it may be sufficient to turn the defroster on before starting the car to force the ICE to start, then after the car is out and we're about to get onto to the street from our condo can turn the defroster off and resume EV mode. This will give the car about 90 seconds w/ the ICE running which will be sufficient to coat parts w/ oil while keep RPMs very low.

I appreciate your good help!
 

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2020 RAV4 Hybrid XSE, Weather, JBL, Tech Package
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@NoelinColorado FYI: the ICE also makes noise…
Also, the annoying error message for when the speaker is disconnected might not go away just by flipping the switch and reconnecting it (it might need a reboot to register that the problem has been fixed).
 
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