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Yeah, I have been using my foam blob solution for a bit, and although the volume is about 1/2 now, I am throwing in the towel and going with the resistor (resistance is NOT futile ?). I ordered a 4 ohm 50W one, so that should be fine.
 
Excellent. My attempt will be to decrease the sound volume without shutting it off. Without using foam.
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If it is only a speaker, you could try to get creative in reducing the volume if that is what you are aiming for via a capacitor added into the circuit (would only pass high-freq) or possibly some resistance. You would have to be mindful that too much of an impedance change (>5Ω according to andaconda) may trigger the proximity failure...
 
IMHO 50 watts is a little over kill....
I didn't cut any wires. Just unplug the connector from the speaker. Soldered wires to each end of resistor, shrink wrapped the ends, soldered and flattened out the other ends of the wires going to the resistor and shoved them into the disconnected connector (polarity doesn't matter) from the wiring harness. Taped that end up with a little tape to make it weather proof and tie wrapped it back out of the way. Used 3M double sided tape on the back of the resistor and stuck it close the the original speaker. If you ever want to go back to original factory- just unplug resistor and connect to the speaker again.
 
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If it is only a speaker, you could try to get creative in reducing the volume if that is what you are aiming for via a capacitor added into the circuit (would only pass high-freq) or possibly some resistance. You would have to be mindful that too much of an impedance change (>5Ω according to andaconda) may trigger the proximity failure...
It has already been tested successfully with a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor.
So you may want to try a 4 or 5 ohm resistor in series. Impedance on the other hand, I'm not sure about how that might factor in.
 
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Does your load resistor even get hot? :unsure:

Reason I ask is because the power resistors required in order to prevent hyperflash for switchback LEDs on my RAV4 can get smokin' hot when the hazard lights are left on for several minutes...
It stays completely cool to the touch, even after a 5 to 10 min test. As I said earlier - it's been running 8 months now with NO problems cropping up.
 
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The absolute cheapest 4ohm resistor that I found on eBay happened to be 50W, which is why I bought that one. $5, shipped.
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If you went with a 1W or smaller wattage resistor since this is low-current audio signal, you should then be able to bend the leads and just insert it into the connector similar to the example pictured above then wrap in tesa tape or similar in order to weatherproof. It would then be unnecessary to have to find a location to 'mount' a much larger power resistor...
 
The reason I used a 5 watt resistor, was that I figured that the speaker was at least a pretty good size, considering it's weight when I had it out.
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RESISTOR 4 OHM, 5W WIRE-WOUND

15cent speaker resistor linked above is 5w and has bendable leads but not sure if they would be long enough given physical size of resisor insert into the connector...
 
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RESISTOR 4 OHM, 5W WIRE-WOUND

15cent speaker resistor linked above is 5w and has bendable leads but not sure if they would be long enough given physical size of resisor insert into the connector...
I could be quite sure that would be fine.
If you couldn't bend the leads to fit, you could always push one end of the resistor into the female side of the wiring harness, and wrap a short extension wire around the other lead to extend down into the other side of the harness. Before you "plug" it in you could wrap some electrical tape around the whole thing to keep it from shorting out on the frame of the car.
 
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^^^^ Check the shipping. My $5 (shipped) 50W is cheaper, and I would think that 5W might be just barely enough (but I have no proof at all for this). Surely, 25W or 50W covers it with lots to spare. The form factor of this one is nice though.

I definitely would be concerned about that 1W resistor getting too warm!

I plan on soldering short wires to stick in the socket, and shrink wrapping all exposed wire. I'll then just double-sided tape it to the frame. I'll remove the blob (my spray-foamed speaker).

I hope to get mine in a couple of days.
 
I definitely would be concerned about that 1W resistor getting too warm!
Much larger 10W load resistors I use to prevent hyperflash get crazy hot if hazards are left on but that is because they are dissipating constant duty-cycle 12VDC voltage as opposed to AC sine wave speaker-level signal. I would be surprised if a 1watt resistor would even get warm to the touch after quite some time in operation...
 
I hooked my 50W 4ohm resistor up today and can report another success story. No error message and no noise!

I soldered zip cord on to the resistor, heat-shrink-tubed it, and shoved the other end of the zip cord into the connector (after soldering the tips). Wrapped it with tape, and I it will probably be ok. Used double-sided tape to attach to the frame.
 
^^^^thanks. That same thread, where I got my info from, states the speaker was measured to be 3.4 ohms, hence the reason I chose a 4 ohm resistor. Mine should actually work “better” than yours.

Anyway, I’ll poke at it some time and see if there is a loose connection or something.
 
As noted in another thread, I used this 8 ohm 10 watt resistor. It's been working fine for 6 months. It's currently out of stock at Amazon though.

Go to Digikey or Mouser. Plenty of options there. Some equivalent resistors:


You can even go through-hole if you prefer:

 
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