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Anyway, I’ll poke at it some time and see if there is a loose connection or something.
I'd be willing to bet you just have a loose connection . . .
You did disconnect the speaker at the plug and jumper the resistor across the female portion of the connector -- right?
 

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May, I suggest ---
Take it apart again, check for good connections at the female end of the plug.
After you reconnect it without sealing everything up, and while your hood is still up -- Apply your emergency brake, start the car and put it in reverse (reverse produces the loudest noise,) and watch to see that the 'proximity' error doesn't pop up on your mid display. Then if there's no error, carefully button everything back up.
The reason I suggest this is - same thing happened to me. Turned out that the lead that I shoved into the female part of the connector wasn't making a good connection. I bent the lead over onto itself and put a little more solder on it to make it a little larger.
 

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Ok, boys and girls, let's learn from Mr Camfused's mistakes:

1) Using zip cord wire is not a good idea. It was too thick to fit into the connector (I thought it was going in but it was not). So, I soldered a piece of a regular-sized paper clip, about 3/4 inch, on the end of the wires. It fit in all the way in the connector, and is a perfect, snug fit. The wire for a large paper clip was too thick, btw.

2) Be careful where you put stuff and don't drop your roll of electrical tape down in front of the radiator. Took me 5 minutes to barely get my arm in there to get it out!

So, works fine now. I did two separate test drives in the hood, and a 58 mile round trip to hike at a state park (before it might close down). No error messages, and no noise. Once you go no noise, you will not go back! The car is now working like it should, IMHO.

Thanks all for the help with this.
 

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2020 Rav 4 Limited Hybrid
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Ok, boys and girls, let's learn from Mr Camfused's mistakes:

1) Using zip cord wire is not a good idea. It was too thick to fit into the connector (I thought it was going in but it was not). So, I soldered a piece of a regular-sized paper clip, about 3/4 inch, on the end of the wires. It fit in all the way in the connector, and is a perfect, snug fit. The wire for a large paper clip was too thick, btw.

2) Be careful where you put stuff and don't drop your roll of electrical tape down in front of the radiator. Took me 5 minutes to barely get my arm in there to get it out!

So, works fine now. I did two separate test drives in the hood, and a 58 mile round trip to hike at a state park (before it might close down). No error messages, and no noise. Once you go no noise, you will not go back! The car is now working like it should, IMHO.

Thanks all for the help with this.
I understand perfectly your comment about dropping the electrical tape. The black hole in my hybrid currently holds a 1/4" drive 6" extension with a 10mm socket attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
I understand perfectly your comment about dropping the electrical tape. The black hole in my hybrid currently holds a 1/4" drive 6" extension with a 10mm socket attached.
My OCD would cause me great harm leaving that down there. :ROFLMAO: Its not hard to drop the panel to retrieve it.
 

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My OCD would cause me great harm leaving that down there. :ROFLMAO: Its not hard to drop the panel to retrieve it.
It's hard to get under the car to remove all the bolts holding it on. I can only wonder how difficult it would be to get it back up.
 

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I went a head and tried to order a female connector to put the resistor on, and could not seem to find one at all. As I didn't want to mess with the wiring harness, I took apart the "speaker" and used it's connector to solder my resistor to. It worked perfectly.
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Is there a part number and Price for the Speaker

I would like to "modify" one and keep one as original...

Thanks!!

Be Safe out there
 

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Interesting. Just a speaker inside, no electronics...just as we suspected. Also, the "-4" on the speaker probably means 4 ohms.
 

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Sorry to revive a thread that hasn't had any activity in a while; I wasn't sure I wanted to start a new one on this subject. A while back in managermans' thread, someone mentioned installing a switch to control the choir to be able to quickly turn it on/off. I've kinda started down that road too, with the goal of creating a OEM fitting, easily removable, waterproof solution. So far I've gotten a waterproof SPDT switch which I've gotten installed in a small IP65 (If you believe the seller) enclosure. I have the socket connector kit that would go to the speaker on order, and I already have the kit that connects to the car side. Once I have all the parts I can solder/splice the circuits together.

I'll admit this has become more of a pet project due to boredom than anything else. Is anyone interested in something like this?
 

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Sorry to revive a thread that hasn't had any activity in a while; I wasn't sure I wanted to start a new one on this subject. A while back in managermans' thread, someone mentioned installing a switch to control the choir to be able to quickly turn it on/off. I've kinda started down that road too, with the goal of creating a OEM fitting, easily removable, waterproof solution. So far I've gotten a waterproof SPDT switch which I've gotten installed in a small IP65 (If you believe the seller) enclosure. I have the socket connector kit that would go to the speaker on order, and I already have the kit that connects to the car side. Once I have all the parts I can solder/splice the circuits together.

I'll admit this has become more of a pet project due to boredom than anything else. Is anyone interested in something like this?
I'll Give you $50-$60 for your efforts
Seriously
PM me
 

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You guys would hate my '16 Prius. When it is in reverse, it makes the classic beep beep beep sound, and only in the interior, not the exterior. A bit silly, but how long am I ever in reverse anyway? A lot of griping about it on Prius chat forums of course.

My 20 RAV 4 chorus of satanic angels sound is kind of fun. I like watching the puzzled, weirded out looks it gets from people in parking lots.
 

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I got this done, finally. I'll prefix this by saying that I am not going to sell these. There's too much that can go wrong and the potential liability is not something I want to deal with. Plus, I spent about 4 hours on this project yesterday and that's just not effective from a cost perspective.

Anyway, here is a video of the switch working:

Here is the wiring "diagram", if you can call it that. I am not an electrical engineer so I don't have electrical drafting skills :ROFLMAO:
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I used the following items, some of which I had on hand, some of which I bought specifically for this project:
The general fabrication procedure I followed was this:
  1. Drilled a hole in the side of the box to match the requirement for the switch
  2. Labeled the switch wires so I could keep track of which was what
  3. Install the switch into the hole and tighten the retainer nut
  4. Drill small holes in the side of the box to pass wires in and out of the box
  5. Plan where add quick disconnect terminals - this makes stringing wires through tight spaces easier.
  6. Strip end of the wires as necessary; pre-tin wires and the terminals on the resistor. Plan where your shrink tube will go and pre-stage the tubing on the wire as appropriate - you can't retroactively do that after soldering.
  7. Pass the wires through their respective holes, create the "mute/off" circuit first by soldering the supply hot to the common switch wire, then the "off" switch wire to one side of the resistor, then the other side of the resistor to the Negative supply wire. Use the multimeter to verify continuity and that there is matching resistance. Use heat to shrink the tubing over the soldered wire to insulate it.
  8. Create the 'on" circuit by soldering the "on" switch wire to the "hot" wire that will go to the speaker, then splice the speaker negative into the negative wire that goes to the car harness. I used a quick/vampire splice, but you could use any method you like, just make sure you splice into a point that does not include the resistor in the circuit. Use the multimeter to verify continuity and that resistance is close to nil. Heat shrink your tubing over solder joints.
  9. For the car side connector, assemble the connector housing and terminal repair kits. Strip a small portion of the wires, then crimp quick disconnect terminals onto the wire ends to connect the hot/negative "supply" wires to the wires going "to" the box. I made sure to alternate the male/female terminals so that you can't swap polarity by mistake. Now is a good time to make sure you have continuity between the terminals in both "on" and "off" switch positions. "On" should have continuity with close to 0 resistance, "off" should have continuity but with 8-9 ohms of resistance.
  10. For the speaker side connector (Corsa Technic kit), slide the included gaskets over a new length of wire not attached to anything, and strip a small amount of insulation. Slide one of the terminals over the exposed wire and crimp it so that the lower prongs secure the gasket/wire insulation while the upper prongs secure the exposed wire. Do this for both terminals. Determine which side is to be the hot vs the negative, and slide the terminals into the connector, then press the white tab in to secure the terminals in place. Crimp quick disconnect terminals on the opposite wire end in the same way as above, and complete the wiring by attaching them to the wires on the wire pair coming "from" the box.
  11. Use silicone sealant to close off any gaps around the holes drilled for the wires to pass. For good measure, apply on the box interior and exterior. Wait for the silicone to cure before proceeding.
  12. Put the top on the enclosure and screw together securely.
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General install process
  1. Open the hood and remove the plastic trim piece
  2. Disconnect the car side of the connector from the speaker/remove existing by-pass if applicable
  3. Identify where you want to mount the box and how you want to run the wires to their respective connecting points. (Ideally you should do this before you start fabrication so you know how long your wires need to be before you start)
  4. Run your wires as desired, taking advantage of the quick disconnects to snake wires through tight spaces if required, and the connect everything up.
  5. Test - Get someone's help to stay in the cab with the vehicle in reverse so they can hold the brake. Validate there are no PVNS errors on the MID. Toggle the switch between on/off positions and make sure that you hear the reverse noise in the on position and blessed silence in the off position. Park and turn the vehicle off. Toggle the switch to off/mute. Turn the vehicle back on and make sure there are still no errors showing on the MID. If at any point you get a MID error or the speaker doesn't sing when it should, turn the vehicle off and check your wiring.
  6. If all is well, wrap electrical tape around the quick disconnect terminals to prevent shorts, finalize your wire routing, reinstall the plastic trim, and mount the box as desired.
Here's my final install:
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Thank you greatly for whoever discovered this mod and all the input on this post. After reading through I went with a 10.4 ohm 50 watt resistor. I had a few of these high wattage resistors kicking around the shop and found a 34 and a 15. Paralleled them to get the 10.4 ohms. Took a 10mm and a 12mm socket out to take the shroud and hood latch off. Found the Canadian version is all 10mm for some reason. Anyway, disconnected the harness from the "angel speaker" and connected it to the resistor. No errors show in the vehicle and better yet, no choir of angels singing. Took less than an hour to complete after reading this post.
I actually don't mind the sound, it is just far too loud for my liking in reverse:oops:. If it was the same volume in reverse as it is in forward I would have just left it alone. This was not shown to me when I bought the vehicle. The first time I backed up I thought something was terribly wrong!

Hopefully no more frowns from people in parking lots like I'm backing up a power wheels jeep or something:rolleyes:
 
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