RAV4 Hitch

http://www.spokanister.net/Docs/RAV4_Receiver_Install_With_Tow_Package.pdf

According to this link the main bolts (17) for the frame are 12mmX35 mm.

Awhile ago I installed the factory hitch by myself, and remembered wanting to get a M12X1.25 tap to clean the rusted thread in the frame welded nuts. The frame bolts are definitely M12X1.25. Not sure about the M10 & M8 bolt thread though.

 

The holes that it shows are for the 12mm I can't even get the bolt to the threads.

 

Well got one to start but it wasn't easy...

 

Are the welded frame nuts rusted internally? It may be necessary to use something like penetrating oil to help dissolve the rust and serve as a lubricant.

 

Like Canuck said, run a tap through the holes

 

Flood the weld-nut holes with BP Blast or equivalent the day before, then again an hour before, then just before using a use a chasing tap (if you can) rather than a new-thread tap to clean up the threads.

And next time, put the bolts back in place with anti-seize.
.

 

Shot the holes full of CLP and waited 30 minutes. The rear 2 bolts are in as they should be. The front two are in 3/4 and have stopped. Tryin to decided if I should risk backing them out to spray more stuff in. Got pissed off and it was getting late so I stopped for the night.

 

Reaching back to the painful memory of the install . . . . . Yeah that sounded about right, 3/4 way in and stuck. Backed them out then tighten for one more turn, back out & repeat . . . . I did initially sprayed the welded nuts with penetrating oil but it created a slurry with the paint/rust already in the thread, thus jamming the bolt progress. You may want to douse the area after backing out the stuck bolt to flush out the crud. I have a heck of a time trying to tightening the front two bolts completely. I used a long breaker bar attached to the socket for additional torque. I was sweating a bit over fear of shearing the bolts, but they survived.

BTW, the M12X1.25 tap is fairly expensive to purchase by itself. That's the reason I used the frame bolt as the chasing tap. It's a very lousy chasing tap as it gets stuck more often than advancing. Doing it over again, I would buy the chasing tap. It would have cut my install time by up to half. YMMV.

 

Got it done. Went to my folks house where I had access to a large variety of tools I don't have currently. 1/2 drive ratchet with the proper metric head as well as an impact wrench and I got it installed. Huge difference compared to my 3/8 ratchet. There is anti seize on them in case I ever want them to come off for some reason. Now I have to wire the lights in which I am not looking forward too. Dad was a machinist for 26 years and has lots of tools I don't, but he didn't have the right tap.

 

For future reference, a battery terminal brush as pictured below can be used to clean up those rusty threads. Spray some penetrating oil onto the threads and rotate the little wire brush in the hole to clean the rust out.

 

Thanks I'll keep that in mind.

 

To add to JuneBug's excellent suggestion, you could use a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment. That's the 'quicker' method I used, but wear goggles!

 

This reminds me to re-torque the bolts in mine. Does anyone remember the proper torque?

 

According to the install instruction in the attached .pdf link:

M12 bolt: 60lb-ft
M10 bolt: 37lb-ft
M8 bolt: 19lb-ft

 

I know it's an old thread. Just wanted to drop by and say Thanks for the info on Tap size, worked perfectly for me

 

Hello good day
I own a Toyota Rav4 2012 V6 sport , recently I needed to install the eyebolt to tow my Rav4 out of the ditch in the snow on the side road , unfortunately the eye bold wouldn’t fit because the treads on the bumper were rusted . To bad I wish I knew this when I bought my car to put grease on the treads every years. So i ask the dealership to retap the treads, but they didn’t have the Tap not surprised about the professionalism.... so I Decided to take care of all this. The Tap must be to expensive so I decided to bought two bolts that fit M24x70 10.9HCS also with lock washers
I find a precision metal Shop, I draw a picture of an L bracket made of steel 1/4” thick and order the two “L” plates
My plan is to install the two bolts with my impact drive 1/2” dewalt on the front bumper in the eye bolts location with the L plates this will be a permanent fit . On the L plates there is a second hole for fit the strap hook (the 3000lbs/max10000lbs straps )
I will published the parts plus the installation if anyone’s are interested. Im still waiting for my two plates once I installed them I will send the pictures
If anyone wants to buy the same full kit I may could provide everything with the L plates at a price