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Can someone please HELP me - Electrical diagram

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miles26

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Rav4 1997 Automatic 4WD - White
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

yesterday I replaced the timing belt, harmonic balancer & engine mount. And was hoping the starting hesitation will go away.. but still can't start on the first round, always after 2nd or 3rd time. Only happens when it's hot, when cold - it starts in the morning on the first shot.

Fuel pump is new
Spark plug cables new
Spark plugs are in good shape
distribuitor cap new & rotor
Coil was tested and it's fine

So I tried the fuses/ relays and was able to locate the EFI ones.. After swapping for duplicate relays, still does not start

I saw a fuse.. or a resistor which I have no clue what's for, it's black and big not like the regular fuses.. it's in the fuse box on the driver's left foot side.

Can someone PLEASE help me finding the wiring diagram or identify that are the relays for there, and if I can swap to see if there's a change.. but don't know if taken a good relay will burn or disable another section which I have no clue..

Obviously blind on on this one guys,, please if anyone has the books, software or links share so I can identify each of the fuse boxes relays/ fuses/ connectors are for?

Thanks!
 
#2 · (Edited)
From experience with bad starts when hot, and especially if the problem worsens, the first thing I would check is the igniter. Then relays (which also can be persnickety after warm-up). Here is the igniter location:
Image


Also I would check the battery's voltage first thing in the morning, before starting, and compare this to the voltage when the Rav4 fails to start. Check the negative terminal's connection to the Rav4's body. Is the bolt snug? Is the connection point clean? Check both battery cables and clean and snug up as needed.

This is a 1996 or 1997 Rav4, correct? Is it auto or manual transmission? All wheel drive or front wheel drive? Maybe put the year, tranny, and {awd or fwd} in your profile under "about" and in your signature line.

I attached three manual sections that might help. More are available at Toyota Rav4 1996 Service and Repair Manual + Wiring | Cardiagn.com . Maybe start with document pages 18 and 24 (pdf pages 17 and 23) in the EWD section (attached). The circuit opening relay is part of the fuel pump motor's circuit.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
miles26, here are two other quick checks that I would do --

-- Can you check to see if the computer is throwing any codes (pending or otherwise)? For most 1997 and earlier Rav4s, you can use the data link connector 1 (DLC1) in the engine bay to check for codes. The connector is shown below:
Image

Then use these videos to read the code(s):


-- Check the resistance of the ECT sensor when the engine is hot and when it is cold. The ECT sensor is shown below:
Image

It is easy to unfasten the ECT sensor connector and do the check with a multimeter. Are the ohms consistent with the graph below?
Image
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Wow! I got work to do!

I can never stop thanking you! ? I will check on that, right now. I have made connection fixes my self for the ECT (see pic).

I will disconnect all of the relays, igniter, coolant sensor and bring it to my desk to test with multi meter for ohms/ continuity and temperature.

I will keep in touch, I have skype and whatsapp to share in case if need to. But I won't disturb your important day.

be right back with test results.

Thank you again - Elle_Rav4!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Hi,

I tested each of the relays. All are good, check the ohm and there are between 50-120. Next, I checked the CTS and this one is good also, as it read 2.0hm in range. I added hot water and it went down to 1.0hm.

While placing back the relays, I notice the fuse box 1 had a melted cable.. which I had repaired in the past, but really gotten worse. So, I fixed that too.. just waiting for the JBwell to dry.

images attached. the green cable was the replaced one.

will try to turn it on the vehicle once this drys out.

on the igniter, I took it apart, cleaned terminals including the screws and installed again. Will have to test with a used one from another vehicle or a junk yard.

Will let you know.

Thanks for the great resources.

Miles.
 

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Hi there,

As far as the code reading, I was not successful. I inserted cable jumper to E1 and Te1 then turned key to the On position.. nothing happened. No Service Engine Light.. I wonder if I'm missing a step?

Best,

Miles
 
#8 ·
Without the jumper in place, and when you turn the key to the on position (but with the engine off), does the check engine light (CEL) come on (along with other lamp checks)?

When you want to check for codes, you are supposed to first turn the key to the on position (leaving the engine off) and afterwards jumper the TE1 and E1 terminals. Are you jumping the correct terminals?

Here is more on retrieving codes:

Toyota OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net www.troublecodes.net

If there are no codes, and following the steps above for retrieving codes, the CEL should blink continuously and evenly.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Elle_Rav4 said:
Without the jumper in place, and when you turn the key to the on position (but with the engine off), does the check engine light (CEL) come on (along with other lamp checks)?

When you want to check for codes, you are supposed to first turn the key to the on position (leaving the engine off) and afterwards jumper the TE1 and E1 terminals. Are you jumping the correct terminals?

Here is more on retrieving codes:

Toyota OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net www.troublecodes.net

If there are no codes, and following the steps above for retrieving codes, the CEL should blink continuously and evenly.
Click to expand...
Got it!! I had the jumper in place before turning the key to the On position.

Will check as soon as possible, the glue looks like it work perfect!
 

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Discussion starter · #10 ·
I tried the code reading process and was not successful. I tried starting the car.. no luck either. I swapped the cables on the Coolant temp sensor.. nothing.

Before all of this today the vehicle started, but not at the first turn - however, it started.

I will continue tomorrow.. I don't want to drain the battery.

Igniter?

Thank you so much for the help - will continue tomorrow for sure. I'm guessing Igniter.. as I took cleaned it.

best,

Miles
 
#11 · (Edited)
-- Did you check to make sure the lamp for the check engine light (in the instrument cluster) is not burned out? You do this by turning the key to the second position (do not start the engine). Look at the lights on the dashboard. Is the CEL on?

-- If the battery gets below about 12.5 volts, this will be insufficient to cause the engine to start.

-- I think you are right to try swapping out the igniter with one that hopefully is functional.

-- Check the crankshaft position sensor's resistance:
985-1600 ohms when cold
1265-1890 ohms when hot

-- Check the resistance of the distributor's Signal Generator (a.k.a. pickup coil or camshaft position sensor, mounted in the distributor housing):
Cold 135 − 220 ohms
Hot 175 − 255 ohms

-- Check (again?) the ignition coil's resistances:
Primary coil resistance:
Cold 0.36 − 0.55 Ω
Hot 0.45 − 0.65 Ω

Secondary coil resistance:
Cold 9.0 − 15.4 kΩ
Hot 11.4 − 18.1 kΩ
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I will provide the results tomorrow from all of the tests you listed - Thank you so much for the time on this.

Can't wait till tomorrow!

Bye!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Morning everyone,

uninstalled the distributor as this model has the camshaft sensor built inside the distributor. because I found oil leak and bad connection.

Also brought the coil with me to make ohm tests, so the distributor as advice from Elle_Rav4.

I will locate and buy the seal as it literally melted..

pics attached
 

Attachments

#15 · (Edited)
Miles, about this other part: Go to the 1996Rav4EWD file I attached, document page 29 ( = pdf page 28). There is an "ignition system noise filter" mounted next to the ignition coil. Search the file for the phrase "noise filter" and you will also see the noise filter on some schematics. The filter should have two wires connecting to it. I do not see a need to test the filter.

Are you using the 1996Rav4IG.pdf file I attached, pages IG-2, IG-4, and IG-5, to check the ignition coil? These pages have some drawings.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Hi Elle_Rav4,

I tested the for resistance on all of the components except the Crankshaft Position Sensor as this one I replaced my self, when couldn't start the car at all a year ago.

-- Check the resistance of the distributor's Signal Generator (a.k.a. pickup coil or camshaft position sensor, mounted in the distributor housing):
Cold 135 − 220 ohms = 173
Hot 175 − 255 ohms = TBD

-- Check (again?) the ignition coil's resistances:
Primary coil resistance:
Cold 0.36 − 0.55 Ω = 1.5
Hot 0.45 − 0.65 Ω = TBD

Secondary coil resistance:
Cold 9.0 − 15.4 kΩ = No signal
Hot 11.4 − 18.1 kΩ

The O-ring and coil is on their way.

Will get this put together soon and let you know if this was the issue.

best,

Miles
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #17 ·
quick question, for the coil ohm test it doesn't matter if it's on uninstalled from the vehicle right?

I made tests on a table away from the vehicle.

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
BTW, I was not able to retrieve any codes.. or see any lights flashing.

the Service Engine light does light up when turning the key to the first positon.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Having the ignition coil off the vehicle for testing is fine. Did you check that your multimeter probes were connected as described in the photo below?
Image

What do you mean by "no signal"? Are you saying the multimeter indicated an open loop when connected to the positive + terminal and the high tension terminal?

Regarding reading codes: Your Rav4 may be set up for what is called OBD2. You would need a scanning tool to read the codes. A basic version of this tool costs around $15 on eBay. But I am not positive OBD2 is what you have. This is a longer discussion, unless someone else reading here wants to chime in.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Hi Elle_Rav4,

Are you saying the multimeter indicated an open loop when connected to the positive + terminal and the high tension terminal? Correct!

Thanks again Elle_Rav4, I bought one, but it did not work for this car. I lent it to a friend.. I was hoping to learn more,, unfortunately stuck.. economically as well.. living here is very expensive when unemployed. And the virus thing.. is making it worse. That's for another time..

Anyway, I think the coil is bad.. .right?

I still have time tomorrow to install it and check if all works.. but i'm pretty sure will have the same results.

I will purchase the new one, as it will be delivered tomorrow.. today no luck they said.

Miles.
 
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