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2007 V6 Sport. Check engine code P0136 --> New oxygen sensor --> Now throwing P0137

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#23 · (Edited)
Wow, thanks for the great pics and advice on B1S1. I don't have a problem yet (knock on wood) but want to be prepared.

I have a set of those sockets that are are meant for oxygen sensors (with a slot in it for the wire), but most of them are 7/8". I have a friend who had to replace both sensors in the engine of his older Lexus Land Cruiser's V8. Using the 7/8" sockets, there was too much play and so rounded off the O2 sensor. A 22mm open ended wrench it would much better especially for tight locations (if you can get a wrench there), and fits much more snug - not sure if the cable connector can pass through a closed ratcheting one if you use the closed end.
 
#24 ·
you need to really soak the threads with pb blaster or simular penetrating oil for a few days and hope you can get it out. I haven't read of too many people here having good luck with that B1S1 sensor. Maybe you will be one of the lucky ones and it comes out easy.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
For my old one I cut the wires and used a 22mm deep socket with a cheater bar on the ratchet. I did spray it with PB every day for four or five days beforehand as well.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Ugh.

Got the Denso B1S2 and installed it. Drove for some 70 miles and the dreaded lights came on again. I received the following codes. I didn't get a printout, only wrote down the codes and googled the meaning.

P0136 B1S2 Low Voltage (same oxygen sensor code as original)
P2270 B1S2 Stuck Lean
P2271 B1S2 Stuck Rich
P1578 Brake System Failure
C1201 Engine Control System Malfunction

Yes, I got both a "lean" and "rich" diagnosis. I presume P1578 is simply due to the car shutting down the various safety systems when an engine code is thrown, as has happened in the past, and C1201 is a generic code that is triggered by the O2 sensor in the first place. Note this is the THIRD different O2 sensor I have in there.

Stuff I've done in the meantime, before I put the Denso sensor in:

Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned throttle body
Replaced air filter
Run fuel injector cleaner in gasoline (at double strength in fact)

The shifting is a bit sluggish in addition to the acceleration. I plan to replace the transmission fluid at some point, although I'm not very well equipped to do it right now.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Bought it off Walmart's website; they were best combination of price and speed. Box looks like every other Denso box I've seen in videos and has no obvious signs of being a fake (no printing issues, misspellings, etc). Came with the anti-seize stuff that even has "DENSO" stamped on the tube.

I doubt the issue is the sensor at all at this point.
 
#29 ·
Let me tell you a story. Back in 2017, a 2007 camry v6 in my family had an engine code for B2S2 sensor. It seemed like a simple job to change so I went ahead brought a denso off eBay( bad idea). The box arrived and everything looks legitimate with denso anti seize, box and stuff. But it just plain didn’t work and I got refund and brought another one from a brick and mortar parts store. Same thing. I gave up and took it to a mechanic down the street and he insisted he would only use toyota dealer parts for air fuel and oxygen sensor because nothing else would work. 110 for the Toyota dealer sensor almost double the denso parts. But it works, finally. It took 3 tries.

i think you can try to get refund from Walmart and buy one from Toyota ( but probably be non refundable from Toyota ) Only then you can be 100% certain the oxygen sensor is good.
158559
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
I thought Denso was Toyota's OEM.

Anyway, the damn light's come on the same way with each of the three sensors, 50-80 miles after reset or new install, while cruising at freeway speeds. I understand some codes don't get thrown until the computer detects the same problem after multiple engine starts, so within that distance it includes turning off the car and letting it cool down, too.

If I don't come up with an idea that won't take me more than an hour or two (like, not replacing a cat or anything), it's going to my local mechanic Monday morning and I'll tell them my story about the sensors.
 
#31 ·
Sounds to me like you have some other Problem. Denso is the OEM MAKER. If you bought it from Walmart itself and not a marketplace I highly doubt you got a fake sensor.

I don't know about the V 6 but on the I4 that code turned out to be the A/F Sensor that was causing the code. Might be time to have a pro look at it.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
It was "Sold and shipped by Walmart".

@2011rav4 said:
I don't know about the V 6 but on the I4 that code turned out to be the A/F Sensor that was causing the code. Might be time to have a pro look at it.
Click to expand...
Would that be one of the upstream sensors (sensor 1's)? So replacing is similar to replacing B1S2 with possible issues of accessing it as discussed above? Probably worth paying the diagnostic fee to get a confirmation that's the problem.
 
#33 ·
Yes B1 S1. The one that real hard to get out. However that was on the I4. I don't remember reading it happening to the V6 .

I personally wouldn't spend anymore money until you find out what the Problem is. It could be something totally different causing the problem and you really didn't lose that much money by trying the 02 sensor.

Let us know how you make out
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I may just order the B1S1 now (~$100), and while I wait for it to arrive spend the next few days spraying PB Blaster on the one in my car. If I don't use it I can always send it back for $5 or so. My local shop will install parts I buy/bring in.

The very first mechanic I went to (not my local one) recommended replacing both sensors on bank 1 but wanted $800 for the whole job, so if that's the problem I'm still way ahead.
 
#35 ·
It's up to you. You don't even know if that's the real problem. Search for some threads here on removing B1S1.

Many people had a hard time if they could get it out at all.

Good luck


www.rav4world.com

B1S1 Sensor stuck in manifold

2008 V6 Limited RAV4 128,000 miles I took the car into the mechanic because of the CEL, VSC,4WD lights came on. It was determined that the codes and diagnostics point to the B1 S1 AFR or Oxygen sensor. The quoted me $510 for diagnostic, part and labor. I said go ahead and get it done. An...
www.rav4world.com www.rav4world.com
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
@2011rav4 said:
It's up to you. You don't even know if that's the real problem.
Click to expand...
Understood. But a shop would probably do the same thing I'm doing, right? Code says it's B1S2, so replace that. Still throws a code, so next obvious thing is to replace B1S1. So either the shop replaces two sensors or I do, no matter what the "real" problem is. The nearest Toyota dealer is about 70 miles away, if they know better than an independent shop would.

I happened upon a YouTube video that explained how a bad B1S1 triggers the B1S2 code. It's from an I4, not a V6, but I suspect is still applicable. Maybe I'll get the voltages read while I wait.


There's very little downside to just ordering the b1s1 for now. I do want to look at it in the car tomorrow when it's daylight to see what I'm getting into.

I expected to sink a little money into this car to get it up to spec, and while it's taken me longer than I'd like so far I'm not in "oh crap" territory yet.
 
#37 ·
colobama said:
Understood. But a shop would probably do the same thing I'm doing, right? Code says it's B1S2, so replace that. Still throws a code, so next obvious thing is to replace B1S1. So either the shop replaces two sensors or I do, no matter what the "real" problem is. The nearest Toyota dealer is about 70 miles away, if they know better than an independent shop would.

I happened upon a YouTube video that explained how a bad B1S1 triggers the B1S2 code. It's from an I4, not a V6, but I suspect is still applicable. Maybe I'll get the voltages read while I wait.


There's very little downside to just ordering the b1s1 for now. I do want to look at it in the car tomorrow when it's daylight to see what I'm getting into.

I expected to sink a little money into this car to get it up to spec, and while it's taken me longer than I'd like so far I'm not in "oh crap" territory yet.
Click to expand...
Ok. Hope it works out for you. Maybe you'll get lucky.
 
#38 ·
I think it would be worth getting the freeze frame data and looking at that before you change out another part. you need direction to why/what is causing the 2 lean codes and 1 rich code - freeze frame will give direction.

You could look at live data, and if B1S2 is screaming lean, then squirt a little fluid into the intake after the MAF and see if S2 wakes up/reacts. Search Daigniosedan on Youtube and look at one he posted recently about a Cat with a corrosion hole in it. It will give you some idea if you have a duff new Denso - it could happen, so rule it out first.

Lean could be a vacuum leak, or a fuel delivery problem. If you are able to post the fuel trims (both banks at short term and long term) at idle and then say 2500 rpm when the car is warmed up, it will give us an idea of what is setting the codes. See Gears Magazine - making fuel trims work to read the theory.

Well done on the MAF/TB clean - it will help

Hope this helps.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Well I checked it out, and good Lord, that has to be the hardest part to get to on the entire car. I found it easier to just crawl under and look up for it. I can also reach behind the engine from above and touch it.

I doubt I can even get a wrench on it from below, though. Anyone know whether it would be possible to access it from above by removing the intake manifold?
 
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