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Issues after replacing U241E w/ used U140F Transmission 2006 2.4L

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25K views 74 replies 17 participants last post by  sergtsil  
S
#1 ·
2006 Rav4 Sport 2.4L 2WD Original U241E transmission suddenly dies within hours last Friday. Car has 207,000 miles.
Car wouldn't even move and sounded like thousands of rocks in there.

Had a certified used U140F transmission shipped in from MD and local mechanic did the transmission
swap. Picked up car today. Biggest problem is car won't go into Drive (D) after 3rd gear.
Will auto shift itself from 1st, to 2nd to 3rd but that's where it ends.

I know the mechanic had to swap out the end plate from the old tranny to the new to fit in the engine compartment but not sure if any sensors or anything else needed to be swapped from bad transmission to the newer replacement.

Does the ECM or ECU need to be reprogrammed or reset so the car can go into DRIVE? IS that the issue or something else?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 
#11 ·
Never mind that, why did the tech go ahead and install it anyway? If the tech wasn’t familiar enough to know not to install an AWD transmission into a FWD vehicle....


2012 RAV4 Base FWD.
Upgraded to large from brakes and 3rd row rear springs.
 
#12 ·
OK, after further review of the service manual, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) controls the transmission. This is located under the hood next to the battery. There are 4 different transmissions available for the 4.3. They are U140F (4 Speed 4WD) Automatic Transaxle, U151E (5 Speed 2WD) Automatic Transaxle, U151F (5 Speed 4WD) Automatic Transaxle, and U241E (4 Speed 2WD) Automatic Transaxle. Each one will have a unique ECU. There is also a specific RESET procedure for the ECU when a transmission is replaced. Disconnecting the battery won't do it:

INITIALIZATION
1. RESET MEMORY
NOTICE:
• Perform the RESET MEMORY procedures (A/T
initialization) when replacing the automatic
transaxle assembly, engine assembly or ECM.
• RESET MEMORY can be performed only with the
intelligent tester.
HINT:
The ECM memorizes the vehicle conditions when the
ECT controls the automatic transaxle assembly and
engine assembly. Therefore, when the automatic
transaxle assembly, engine assembly, or ECM has been
replaced, it is necessary to reset the memory so that the
ECM can memorize the new information.
The reset procedures are as follows.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(b) Connect the intelligent tester to the CAN VIM. Then
connect the CAN VIM to the DLC3.
(c) Turn the ignition switch ON and turn the tester ON.
(d) Enter the following menus: DIAGNOSIS /
ENHANCED OBD II.
(e) Perform the reset memory procedures from the
Engine menu.
CAUTION:
After performing the RESET MEMORY
procedures, be sure to perform the ROAD TEST
(see page AX-12) as described earlier.
HINT:
The ECM learns through the ROAD TEST.
 
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#21 ·
Yes, I'm just going to have to pull this U140F and have them call tag it. I can take car to AAmco for a free evaluation but not sure if that will help anything at this point. There probably gonna tell me "wrong transmission".



I called the seller of the U140F today, have done everything they suggest, guy was gonna have the mechanic call me back and didn't.

They are horrible in support. I can get a U241E in FL so might drive there this weekend to pick up.
 
D
#27 ·
After reading all these posts what SoNic67 says might be on the right track. Or at least I know what I'd do, and have done on one of my F-250s. I'd identify the wires, probably three, in the transmission connector the operate the shift solenoids, pierce them with pins and using LEDs determine what signals are actually being sent to the transmission. If it's being told to go into all gears but isn't it could be a solenoid failure, a relatively inexpensive fix. If it's never getting the signal for Drive either the ECU or pinouts are wrong.

And one piece of advice for the future from a guy who's made a few mistakes over the years; don't make car decisions based on the woman's emotions. Somewhere in our years of marriage my wife came to a conclusion and now says, "I'll drive whatever you put under me." She does love her RAV4 V6 that she's had for ten years because, "It goes so easy."
 
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#28 ·
I'm taking it to AAmco today for a "Free Evaluation". They know the transmission has been swapped so will see what they have to say tomorrow. I hope it is a bad shift solenoid. One thing I noticed right off after driving car with the newer transmission, the VSC LIGHT stays on all the time and the ICON of the CAR with squiggly track is on all the time. The AUTO LSD button has no effect either anymore. So something is way off.
 
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#31 ·
Update: Now the RAV4 is "bucking" at idle or neutral. Getting code P0238 for faulty knock sensor now. No other codes but motor is running rough. Not sure if the transmission caused this code to appear or if the knock sensor went bad because of the wrong transmission. Anyway at least it was driving ok before in all speeds except Drive before. Now I have to shifty manually from 1,2,3. Car would never be able to limp anywhere starting in "D" now.
 
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#33 ·
Update: Sorry, the correct KNOCK SENSOR code is P0328, not P0238.
Is this error coming up because the sensor has gone bad at the same time the transmission has been giving me these issues? The car is running rough, even at idle now in park or neutral. I has that missing sound until it gets to 2500-3000 rpm.
 
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#35 ·
Possible scenario as it seemed to start throw the P0328 code right after I took car back for mechanic to swap out the two speed sensors and the gear selector switch...I watched a YouTube video on how to replace the Knock Sensor and it looks like a horrible long process to gain access to it.
I wonder if when the transmission gets swapped out again in Decemeber, if it'll be easier to reach the knock sensor from underneath when the transmission is out?
 
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#41 ·
Found a JDM dealer in Orlando that has a U241 transmission with the correct plate on the side (last one I got I had to remove the Camry mount and replace with Rav4 side plate). Turned out JDM MD sent me a U140F which will never appear to work so trying again.
My door plate states I had a U241E transmission (06/2006). The FL JDM dealer selling me the used tranny states his is a U241, no "E". He states it'll work, no difference, just Japan's way of marking it. Somewhere I read the "E" meant electronic and if that's the case, that's what came out of my 2006 Rav4 Sport 2.4L 2WD.

Are they the same or should I steer clear?
 
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#44 ·
Update: 12/20/2020:
Here we go:
Bought a U241 tranny in Orlando and had a new mechanic swap it in the 2006 Rav4 2WD 2.4L.
He drove it for 15-16 miles he said, shifting fine thru all 4 speeds, then, it replicated what had happened before with the U140F. It wouldn't go into D or 4th gear automatically or using the shift console. The VSC light stays on all the time.
So does the little icon of the skidding car. What gives here? Any ideas?
 
J
#47 ·
Were any parts transferred over to the new tranny (i.e. sensors, TCM)? I do seem to remember reading that swapping trannys may require that there be some reprogramming, especially those from that era. I would think the TCM would require an update but can't say for sure.
 
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#62 ·
Yes, all of your opinions were helpful. Just can't understand why Toyota, of all places, didn't think the reset ECU/TCM would help. I went up there to speak to the Service Manager, express my dissapointment with them and he tells me he will be me mailing me a refund check for the "check out fee" of $150.00.
Some recourse but based on WC Toyota's "findings", if they had tried the reset, I may not have had to have a 2nd mechanic install a second transmission at an additional cost of $1100 and (2) 190 mi. round trips to Orlando.
 
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#63 ·
New issue. Had all 4 brakes done yesterday with new ceramic pads and hardware. Also put two new rotors on front. After driving 10-15 miles all the lights came on the dash and are still on. Car runs fine thou. Question is is there any sensors or electrical connectors near all 4 wheels the mechanic may have disturbed or disconnected? I will be putting it on my cheapie code tester this afternoon.
 
#64 ·
The only sensors are the ABS sensors well behind the rotor. Normally these would not be affected by a rotor change. However if the rotors are rusted to the hubs, a common method to free them is to use a torch on the rotors near the hubs. Too much heat can affect the ABS sensors though, potentially destroying them. You can do a visual check to look for signs of melting.

My solution last time was to put a jack stand under the rotor and lower the vehicle onto that, so the old rotor was taking the whole corner’s weight. Worked like a charm.


2012 RAV4 Base FWD.
Upgraded to large front brakes and 3rd row rear springs.
 
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