Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
61 - 75 of 75 Posts
Discussion starter · #62 ·
Yes, all of your opinions were helpful. Just can't understand why Toyota, of all places, didn't think the reset ECU/TCM would help. I went up there to speak to the Service Manager, express my dissapointment with them and he tells me he will be me mailing me a refund check for the "check out fee" of $150.00.
Some recourse but based on WC Toyota's "findings", if they had tried the reset, I may not have had to have a 2nd mechanic install a second transmission at an additional cost of $1100 and (2) 190 mi. round trips to Orlando.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
New issue. Had all 4 brakes done yesterday with new ceramic pads and hardware. Also put two new rotors on front. After driving 10-15 miles all the lights came on the dash and are still on. Car runs fine thou. Question is is there any sensors or electrical connectors near all 4 wheels the mechanic may have disturbed or disconnected? I will be putting it on my cheapie code tester this afternoon.
 
New issue. Had all 4 brakes done yesterday with new ceramic pads and hardware. Also put two new rotors on front. After driving 10-15 miles all the lights came on the dash and are still on. Car runs fine thou. Question is is there any sensors or electrical connectors near all 4 wheels the mechanic may have disturbed or disconnected? I will be putting it on my cheapie code tester this afternoon.
The only sensors are the ABS sensors well behind the rotor. Normally these would not be affected by a rotor change. However if the rotors are rusted to the hubs, a common method to free them is to use a torch on the rotors near the hubs. Too much heat can affect the ABS sensors though, potentially destroying them. You can do a visual check to look for signs of melting.

My solution last time was to put a jack stand under the rotor and lower the vehicle onto that, so the old rotor was taking the whole corner’s weight. Worked like a charm.


2012 RAV4 Base FWD.
Upgraded to large front brakes and 3rd row rear springs.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Update: 2/21/2021
Rav4 disaster has struck. Since transmission issue was totally put behind us Jan 1st and $2200 later, the radiator decided to sneakily leak out all it's water/antifreeze on my better half's drive home on the interstate last Thursday. She didn't notice or it didn't register the temp gauge had possibly redlined. She felt the car losing power rapidly at 75mph so she worked her way off the busy highway and called me. I told her to turn off the car asap, she did. Went to her aid and car would not start. Had it towed to our home as didn't know if big problem or little problem. The starter will turn the lower crankshaft and the the alternator, ac compressor on other side of engine. I also verified the cam shaft for the valves was turning so timing chain still working. But it sounds dry and strained when turning over, like no compression. Any hope based on this? I feel the motor is toast but maybe someone can chime in here. Oil was changed by Tire Kingdom last week and did not look at all burnt. Also tried to add water at home and it leaks out of radiator fairly fast at the base center.
Thank you.
 
My guess is a blown head gasket. A compression test will confirm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigphil555
Discussion starter · #69 ·
So I imagine a new engine or one from JDM (Japanese Imports) would be the best way to go about it?
I see them at about $1200 delivered with 50K-65K miles on them. Any idea what a private mechanic would charge for the swap? Range?
Thanks for the sympathy Bigphill555.
 
I would certainly undertake a compression test to verify before swapping engines.

If you do have to swap, yes a guaranteed one is best. As for labour charges a pure guess on my half of $1k maybe - I am sure more knowledgeable members would let you know
 
Discussion starter · #72 ·
I believe you have the 2AZ-FE engine, right? if so, it would be great if you can find one that has undergone the fix to the pistons and rings.
Yes, had the piston rings replaced in that excessive oil combustion recall at 150,000 miles.(Just made it!)
Yep, plan on getting a compression test done by someone or may buy a tester at Amazon or Harbor Freight possibly and do it myself. (If they carry them).

Maybe Advance Auto Parts loans these out. I know they loan out tools (I've borrowed flywheel puller before with deposit).
 
Wrong.
On the U1xx, U3xx, U6xx, U7xx transmission series, the letters "E" and "F" represent "2WD" or "4WD/AWD" models, respectively. The letters carry over that notation on U2xx models, but since the U2xx are only 2WD... there is no "F" for them. Probably the stamping on the case doesn't have the E.


This is from the service manual:

You need to perform the RESET MEMORY procedures (A/T initialization) when replacing the automatic transaxle assembly, engine assembly or ECM.
The ECM memorizes the vehicle conditions when the ECT controls the automatic transaxle assembly and engine assembly. Therefore, when the automatic transaxle assembly, engine assembly, or ECM has been replaced, it is necessary to reset the memory so that the ECM can memorize the new information.
The reset procedures are as follows.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(b) Connect the intelligent tester to the CAN VIM. Then connect the CAN VIM to the DLC3.
(c) Turn the ignition switch ON and turn the tester ON.
(d) Enter the following menus: DIAGNOSIS / ENHANCED OBD II.
(e) Perform the reset memory procedures from the Engine menu.
CAUTION:
After performing the RESET MEMORY procedures, be sure to perform the ROAD TEST.
HINT:
The ECM learns through the ROAD TEST.
Does this apply to 2004 4WD model too? I mean ECU reset after transmission replacement?
 
2006 Rav4 Sport 2.4L 2WD Original U241E transmission suddenly dies within hours last Friday. Car has 207,000 miles.
Car wouldn't even move and sounded like thousands of rocks in there.

Had a certified used U140F transmission shipped in from MD and local mechanic did the transmission
swap. Picked up car today. Biggest problem is car won't go into Drive (D) after 3rd gear.
Will auto shift itself from 1st, to 2nd to 3rd but that's where it ends.

I know the mechanic had to swap out the end plate from the old tranny to the new to fit in the engine compartment but not sure if any sensors or anything else needed to be swapped from bad transmission to the newer replacement.

Does the ECM or ECU need to be reprogrammed or reset so the car can go into DRIVE? IS that the issue or something else?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Replace shifter arm on transmission, the one where shifting cable connects to with 12mm nut. I had same problem, solved.
 
61 - 75 of 75 Posts