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Guidance on replacing the transmission on this 2003 AWD Rav4

2.6K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  Kohan21n  
#1 ·
Hello forum! I have a problem. My stepdad's transmission just went out. The vehicle has about 180k miles on it. The transmission doesn't want to shift, and when it does it's highly inconsistent, the RPMs want to stay high and not shift, and then when it does it clunks hard into gear. The mechanic wants $3500 to rebuild it. That seems totally crazy to me. I would be happy just finding a fairly low-mileage tranny and finding a mechanic to swap it in for me. I do a lot of my own auto maintenance, but replacing a transmission is Probably beyond my skill level. Where would you guys look for a good deal on a used transmission?
 
#2 ·
Try your local salvage yard or a place that specialize in importing Japanese transmission. Depends if you live in a big city where parts are easier to find. You can also Google. Just be sure you get the correct transmission. Transmission can be different for 4wd or 2wd.
 
#4 ·
Make sure to check the transmission ecu before attacking the tranny.
Mine was in limp mode and had bad shifts all over the place.
Pulled the ecu, soldered everything, and was good to go. Took maybe an hour.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jyQIFV5JOfg&ved=2ahUKEwjV2ofc09zsAhWWHzQIHRlrBc8QwqsBMAB6BAgdEAM&usg=AOvVaw1fPPpcaYgzHHBozB52nog9
I usually bring to my mechanic since they know more, but thius link is very helpful! Thanks for sharing.
 
#7 ·
I took mine out and resoldered all the circuit board components that were large enough for me to get to with my bulky soldering iron. I mostly just reflowed the solder that was there, and only added solder to the largest components.
Also when you put the ecm back in, with the battery still out, jumper the positive and negative battery terminals to drain any residual charge to reset the ecm adaptive memory.
 
#8 ·
I took mine out and resoldered all the circuit board components that were large enough for me to get to with my bulky soldering iron. I mostly just reflowed the solder that was there, and only added solder to the largest components.
Also when you put the ecm back in, with the battery still out, jumper the positive and negative battery terminals to drain any residual charge to reset the ecm adaptive memory.
Damn. This kinda answers a question I just posted - How to tell if the ECU has been programmed already?

I am going to go pull it out now and take it apart. If the JB weld is there and/or it is soldered together already I know my answer. Thanks for this!
 
#10 ·
Well, I just got done soldering these resistors. No real good news to report. It didn't fix it but it did change my shifting patterns? I never had an issue going into overdrive. Now, it bangs pretty violently when it goes into overdrive. The 1st to 2nd shift is less violent. 2nd to 3rd, goes in perfectly. Obviously whatever I did helped but it wasn't enough. I drained the system as best I could. (headlight switch on, touched cables together before install)

I guess this ECU probably has one or more other issues that needs fixing. Maybe one of the resistors is just bad. I think I will just bite the bullet and send mine out to Circuit Board Medics and hope that fixes it. Looking at the prices for used transmissions makes my stomach turn. I paid less for the car! :LOL:

I will report back when I have a solution. Thank you for your help though! Was a fun attempt at a DIY.
 
#12 ·
moved to 4.2 Faults & Fixes
 
#13 ·
As far as I know you need the scan tool.
It's unlikely your tranamission is shot since the bad behaviours changed with the ECU alteration.
Honestly I dont know that much about it, just what worked for me.
I would send the ECU out for repair.
When I fixed mine I didn't reset the adaptive values with a tool and it was fine. A bit off for a short time, but definitely no banging or slipping.
 
#14 ·
As far as I know you need the scan tool.
It's unlikely your tranamission is shot since the bad behaviours changed with the ECU alteration.
Honestly I dont know that much about it, just what worked for me.
I would send the ECU out for repair.
When I fixed mine I didn't reset the adaptive values with a tool and it was fine. A bit off for a short time, but definitely no banging or slipping.
10/4. I have some more time tomorrow I might just double check my soldering job and check some of the other smaller resistors, just in case. Most likely it won't work and I'll have to send it out. I'll report back when I have more information.

Thanks again for your help.