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rear differential and transfer case gear lube

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#21 ·
vanib said:
I was able to change the lube for the rear differential. I'll post pics later on this. I went ahead and did an engine oil change too.

I was NOT able to find the transfer case.
I am posting a pic of what I think if the transfer case; it is joined to the rear differential but I can't find the filler plug and drain bolt as shown in my previous post.

Do i need to remove the bolts shown in the attachment in order to see the plug and the drain?:shrug:
Click to expand...
transfer case is on the other side of the drive ("propeller") shaft, attached to transmission. You will see the drain and fill plugs after you remove the plastic cover under the engine/tranny.
 
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#22 ·
vanib said:
2008 Rav4 Base 40,000 km and just 4 years old.

I was able to change the lube for the rear differential. I'll post pics later on this. I went ahead and did an engine oil change too.
Click to expand...
I'm considering to replace those fluids like you for my 2006 Rav4 70,000km 6 yrs old.
How was the drained fluid? color? metal? Let us know when you're done.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
After looking for more than 30 min I figured it was hidden by the plastic engine cover.
Thanks for confirming; I will give it a try tomorrow.

The liquid from the rear differential was black with fine metal fillings on magnetic bolt.
0.5 L came out. So I know there was no leak and the surroundings of the bolts were dry.

The torque on the bolt and drain is very low. I marked them with a white paint so that I knew exactly when to stop tightening.

I will post some pics later.
 
#24 ·
http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0Toyota%20RAV4%20Repair%20Manual/GF1A%20Transfer/Transfer%20Oil/03000310.pdf is the section of the manual for the transfer case oil change. Note the torque figures and observe the suggestion for new gaskets. That is page TF-45 of the manual that I think you downloaded.

Page DF-43 says Torque: 39 N*m (400 kgf*cm, 29 ft.*lbf) for the filler and drain plugs you did on the rear differential already. So I think you should tighten further, even though that may well go past your paint marks. It is possible that you think 29 ft-lb is "very low" but I doubt it.

The manual also calls for new gaskets back there. However if the gaskets look durable, as has has been reported by others who have done the changes, I would not change them either.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
By low, I meant relatively low; if you did not have a torque wrench, you would say it is comparable to an engine oil drain bolt torque. I did use a torque wrench. And it aligned exactly on the white mark I made. So I am happy with that.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
ok, a little write-up on the rear differential fluid change
1. get the right fluid - 80W90. It takes between 0.45 and 0.55 litres. My old fluid measured about 0.5L.
2. You will need a wrench (torque wrench recommended but you can get away with simply aligning marks), some kind of pump or flexible tube attached to a bottle, HEX 10 , metal washers (I did not replace, hence I don't know the part number)
3. The rear diff is just across the rear tires. The filler bolt is on the other side of the drain bolt. They might be a little rusted. Use a little penetrating oil and a push on the wrench. Before putting penetrating oil, check if the area around the bolts are dry. Otherwise you have a leak and cannot re-use the metal washers. I actually lifted the rear end just to the bolts loose and then put the car level on the ground for doing the actual drain and fill.
4. Acertain yourself that the filler bolt can come out before draining fluid. Otherwise, you got a RAV that you cannot use.
5. With the car level, take filler bolt out. take drain bolt out. My fluid was dark green almost black with fine metal fillings on the magnetised drain bolt. Collect the fluid and check if it falls between the 0.45 - 0.55L that was supposed to be there.
6. Using my pump, i added 100 ml which I let drain just to take out any fluid that might have pooled inside. This step is not required.
7. Clean your drain bolt. Make sure the washer is there when you put in on. The washer could also stay stuck to the car like it happened with me. Torque the drain bolt back.(39 Nm)
8. add enough fluid through the filler hole until it starts to overflow. Let the excess flow out for 5 min. The fluid is thick so give it time to flow out. ( I actually mesured how much I put in and it was between 0.5 and 0.55 L)
9. Clean your filler bolt, put a 2 drops of gear lube on the threads (so thread does not seize) and torque it back on (39 Nm).

You're done! Note: I have other pics in the first 2 pages of the thread which I have not included here

I wil be doing this fluid change every 2 years.
 

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Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
diy - tranfer case lube change

This is very similar to the rear differential lube change
Same fluid (0.45 L), same Hex bolts, same torque.

The location of the transfer case is just where the plastic engine cover starts.
The bolts come out fairly easily. You don't have to take the plastic cover if you don't want to.
It took more time to remove and put the cover back than to do the job itself!

It seems that my used transfer case fluid was a little cleaner than my used rear diff fluid. The drain bolt was completely covered with fine metal particles.

The car needs to cool a little bit since the exhaust passes around that spot.

I tried using a vinyl tube over the bottle of lube but the tube kept on slipping out. So i was back to using the red pump. See previous post.
The only thing with the pump is that you tend to waste more since the lube coats the interior of the pump and the additional tubing used.

Note to self: the sticker of the transfer case sys "85W-90". The manual says "80W-90". Once my warranty is over I might switch to 75W-90 as suggested by Carbon. Might be better because of cold Ottawa winters.
 

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#28 ·
vanib said:
diy - tranfer case lube change

The location of the transfer case is just where the plastic engine cover starts.

It seems that my used transfer case fluid was a little cleaner than my used rear diff fluid.
Click to expand...
I did both of mine 09 and 10 without removing the plastic cover.

Mine's like that too, wondering if the rear drive shafts and rear diffs are always turning even without engaging the 4wd?

I like the idea of putting a tube over the gear oil bottle, maybe i will try a clear tube with a hose clamp.
 
#29 ·
philrav4 said:
I did both of mine 09 and 10 without removing the plastic cover.

Mine's like that too, wondering if the rear drive shafts and rear diffs are always turning even without engaging the 4wd?

I like the idea of putting a tube over the gear oil bottle, maybe i will try a clear tube with a hose clamp.
Click to expand...
The transfer case and driveshaft are always turning. The electro-mechanical clutch is in the rear diff.
 
#32 ·
For 2006 Rav4 I4 75,000km, I changed transfer case and rear differential fluid, by this post information.
CanadianTire MotorMaster 80W90 gear oil 5L jug for $24 (I need total 3L for 2 SUVs)
Walmart the same hand pump for $16
Lowes 10mm Hex socket for $4

Differential took 2 hours, transfer case for 1 hour with differential's experience.

the 10mm hex socket could not be easily inserted into the plugs because of rust.
also, to break free the plugs I needed long 18" wrench and plenty of muscle, putting on ramps,
and when plugs finally got free, I heard bang sound.

I saw only 1 washer on transfer case's fill plug. other 3 plugs were without washers.
I thought factory forgot to put them. but I read this post again, OP implied all 4 washers were there.
Now I have to search my oil drain pan.
if not there, then they must be on the body safely.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
The washers usually stay on the bolt due to rust. If you don't pry them with your nails, you would not know they are there! If you don't find them in your drain pan, look under the RAV for leaks. No leak means the washes stayed nicely on the bolts.
I am not really worried for you. One of my 4 bolts, only one washer came loose by itself. 1 stayed on the car body. 2 stayed camouflaged on the bolts.
 
#36 ·
vanib said:
diy - tranfer case lube change

This is very similar to the rear differential lube change
Same fluid (0.45 L), same Hex bolts, same torque.

The location of the transfer case is just where the plastic engine cover starts.
The bolts come out fairly easily. You don't have to take the plastic cover if you don't want to.
It took more time to remove and put the cover back than to do the job itself!

It seems that my used transfer case fluid was a little cleaner than my used rear diff fluid. The drain bolt was completely covered with fine metal particles.

The car needs to cool a little bit since the exhaust passes around that spot.

I tried using a vinyl tube over the bottle of lube but the tube kept on slipping out. So i was back to using the red pump. See previous post.
The only thing with the pump is that you tend to waste more since the lube coats the interior of the pump and the additional tubing used.

Note to self: the sticker of the transfer case sys "85W-90". The manual says "80W-90". Once my warranty is over I might switch to 75W-90 as suggested by Carbon. Might be better because of cold Ottawa winters.
Click to expand...
I'm a little confused. Sticker on transfer case specifies 85W-90. Should I then put 85W-90 in it? Seams as 85W-90 is hard to find. 80W-90 is a lot more common. What is the difference between Hypoid Gear Oil and Regular Gear Oil?
 
#37 ·
fatherer said:
I'm a little confused. Sticker on transfer case specifies 85W-90. Should I then put 85W-90 in it? Seams as 85W-90 is hard to find. 80W-90 is a lot more common. What is the difference between Hypoid Gear Oil and Regular Gear Oil?
Click to expand...
80W-90 is just fine for the value
or put synthetic 75W-90 for longer service life & cold winter location.
You don't need to find 85W-90 because of the label.
 
#38 ·
fatherer said:
I'm a little confused. Sticker on transfer case specifies 85W-90. Should I then put 85W-90 in it? Seams as 85W-90 is hard to find. 80W-90 is a lot more common. What is the difference between Hypoid Gear Oil and Regular Gear Oil?
Click to expand...
Like Sean said, 80W90 should be fine (this actually what the factory manual states), but make sure to use hypoid oil (API: GL-5).
 
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