My lift has a story, so I’ll share it here - I needed to move a few things with a flatbed trailer, so I added a Uhaul 2” hitch. The hitch also allowed me to add the 4-bike Thule carrier. The only small problem was - going over speed humps the 10’ flatbed trailer scraped going over. The only other small problem was that the Thule bike rack sticks out from the car to extend beyond our full size spare and now I couldn’t put it on in the driveway without it scraping on the asphalt pulling out of our 25° driveway. So, I started researching. At this point, you start trying to decide... am I going to keep my 2010 Toyota RAV4 (V6) or cashout and get something more suitable. I decided I’m sticking with the 4.3, great engineering, great engine, very few problems with her (replaced a few batteries, an alternator, an oxygen sensor- but, over 9-years that’s not bad.) So, I looked at the options, I wanted to buy the kit from Colorado Mountain Rally, but, his site no longer accepts payments, for any products, 2” lift, nor camber kit. So, I kept looking. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos. Interestingly, it seems that a bunch of Russians have lifted their RAV4s so, I was not shocked when the only kits available are on eBay from Russia. So, I bought the 40mm lift off eBay, and had it ship expedited.
Now the fun part. So, I asked 2 different shops, but, neither of the first 2 shops I talked to (4WheelParts, NTB) would do the work. 4WP said they couldn’t install something they didn’t sell you, [Note: they don’t sell a lift kit for the 4.3, although there is a lift kit by Readylift for the 4.4.] NTB said there’s no kit for the 4.3 and wouldn’t be willing to add the spacers because they refuse to take on the liability. So, finally I found a shop willing to do the work. I negotiated in reverse order. Precision Tune Auto Care on N Lamar in Austin, TX finally helped me out - thanks Elmer! First, I asked how much to install the spacers. He gave me a price. Then how much for the shocks, he gave me a price, and then the struts. We were able to keep the same springs.
So, here’s where things were a little tricky. The replacement bolts and nuts included with the lift kit spacers had a spline that was slightly smaller than the strut mount opening. So, I went to the bolt shop - but, his bolts were not the right type, no spline. I am now told these are stove bolts. Anyhow, at A-Line Autoparts I was able to find 2-1/8” bolts with a 0.47” spline. It would have been better if they were 3”. So, since the bolts were a bit short for the front spacer, I have to take the front spacers to a machine shop. I had the machine shop cut off about 1/2” off the spacers, sectioning the metal reinforced rubber in two. I returned with the parts and after 3-days in the shop, getting replacement bolts/nuts, sectioning with front spacer. We realized that the rear shock (now 2” longer) was not a perfect fit, so, they had to squeeze the metal framing to tightly hold the new Monroe shock.
The increased height means that when lifted, (with no pressure on the tires, the rear shock can touch the axle rod.) But, in real road conditions with 3,500lbs of load they are spaced apart and move freely and would never touch. The only way you could make them touch out in the world would be to go airborne. The ride quality was immediately better, but, I felt a little shuddering so I took it back 3-days later and they simply needed to tighten the controls arms and the bolts on the rear shock where the metal framing had been corrected.
The ride feels good now.
Based on all the research I did, I decided to go with the 245/65R17 tire. I wanted something that can actually eat some rocks and dirt, so I wanted to get the Goodyear Adventure All Terrain T/A with Kevlar, but those are DISCONTINUED.
So, I finally settled on the BF Goodrich T/A KO2. I am a happy camper.
